收纳用横编V形折叠结构织物设计  

V-shaped folding structure′s weft knitting fabric design for storage

作　　者：邓燕丽 石彬琳 董智佳 丛洪莲 马丕波 DENG Yanli;SHI Binlin;DONG Zhijia;CONG Honglian;MA Pibo(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology(Ministry of Education),Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第10期9-15,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(52373058,61902150);中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J202408)。

摘　　要：为探究节约储物收纳空间的柔性针织织物组织与结构创新可行性,以易收纳横编V形折叠结构包为开发对象,展开结构建模、组织设计与试样开发。首先分析折叠结构原理、V形折叠的分类与折痕线类型,在此基础上对横编V形多循环折叠织物进行工艺结构建模,以M1 PLUS软件与STOLL电脑横机作为开发工具,选取76.9 tex再生涤纶竹节纱与12.2 tex/(48 f)热熔涤纶长丝为原料,采用罗纹、双反面、吊针、凸条和浮线组织进行折痕线的结构设计与样品制备。结果表明:折叠结构织物在最大程度缩小自身体积的同时具备大容量可扩展柔性储物收纳的优点,结合材料搭配、上机试样、参数调节与定形工序等建立V形折叠包结构模型与折痕线组织设计实现了可扩容易收纳且环保的横编V形折叠结构织物的快速生产,为横编三维立体折叠结构织物的设计与开发提供了工艺方法与开发实例。In order to explore the feasibility of flexible knitted fabric structures for saving storage space,the V-folded structure bag was selected as the development object.And structural modeling,organization design,and sample development were carried out.Firstly,the folding structure principle,V-shaped folding classification and crease line type were analyzed.Based on the process structure modeling of transverse V-shaped multi-cycle folding fabric,M1 PLUS and STOLL computer flat V-bed knitting machine was selected as the development tool,76.9tex recycled polyester bamboo yarn,12.2 tex/(48 f)hot-fused polyester filament as material,and rib stitch,purl stitch,float stitch and convex stitch were used as crease line structure design and sample preparation.The results show that the folded structure fabric can minimize its volume and have a large storage capacity.Combined with material matching,sample preparation,parameter adjustment and shaping process,the rapid production of expandable,easy to store and environmentally friendly knitted V-shaped folding fabrics has been realized,which provides a process method and development example for the design and knit of three-dimensional folding structure fabrics.

关 键 词：收纳 V形折叠结构 折叠结构建模 折痕线工艺 织物结构设计 纬编工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]