面料性能对不同款式衣褶造型变化规律的影响  

Influence of fabric performance on change law of pleat of different styles

作　　者：张向辉[1,2] 刘楚 范秀恒 肖平[1,2] ZHANG Xianghui;LIU Chu;FAN Xiuheng;XIAO Ping(College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室,上海200051

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第10期28-34,共7页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：上海市设计学Ⅳ类高峰学科资助项目(DD18005);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(2232023G-08)。

摘　　要：为更好地在服装设计中应用褶皱造型,深入剖析面料性能对衣褶造型效果的影响,基于自由端垂荡褶、阴褶、斜向褶、翻折式垂荡褶、抽褶5款特征明显有代表性的衣褶造型和棉机织物、醋酯纤维机织物、涤纶针织物3种不同性能的面料正交组合制作15件样衣,建立灰度共生矩阵和模糊评价模型,从客观指标和主观评分2方面定量分析不同面料和不同款式之间衣褶造型效果的对应关系。研究结果表明,不同类别的褶皱造型对面料要求存在差异:外力施加类褶皱应避免使用针织面料;垂荡褶类端部固定褶皱可以减少面料易变形产生的负面影响;悬垂性好的面料可以改善随机褶类褶皱分布的不规律性。To provide a reference for pleat design in clothing,the influence of fabric properties on pleat effects were analyzed in this study.Fifteen samples were made by orthogonal combination of five kinds of typical pleats(free-end dangling pleat,inverted pleat,synclinal pleat,folding dangling pleat and shirring)and three kinds of fabrics with different properties(cotton woven fabric,acetate woven fabric,polyester knitted fabric).A gray-level co-occurrence matrix and a fuzzy evaluation model were developed to quantitatively analyze the correspondence between pleat effects of different fabrics and styles in terms of objective indicators and subjective ratings.The results show that different types of pleats have different requirements for fabrics:knitted fabrics should be avoided when applying external forces;fixed-end pleats can reduce the negative impact of fabric deformation;fabrics with good drape can improve the irregular distribution of random pleats.

关 键 词：面料性能 衣褶造型 模糊综合评价 图像分析 

分 类 号：TS941.17[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]