女装褶饰袖结构设计及其技术原理  

Structural design and technical principle of women′s ruffled sleeve

作　　者：李大猛 邹平[1] 阮胜坤 LI Dameng;ZOU Ping;RUAN Shengkun(School of Textiles and Garment,Liaodong University,Dandong,Liaoning 118003,China)

机构地区：[1]辽东学院纺织服装学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第10期75-82,共8页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：褶饰袖是将褶饰与衣袖相结合的一种创新袖型,但立体裁剪较难实现复杂的褶饰袖,针对这一问题,文章介绍了褶饰袖分类及其造型形态与结构,在东华女装袖原型的基础上,通过平面结构设计及立体试样的方式,根据褶饰袖款式设计,运用平行、扇形、混合切展的方式来确定褶量,完成女装褶饰袖结构设计及样板制作。针对各类型复杂褶饰袖结构设计技术,总结褶饰袖结构设计技术原理与规则,有原型法、平行切展法、结构重点法、主褶饰线确定法、褶饰线类比及仿形法、闭合法、旋转扇形切展法、纸样折叠验证法、混合切展法、褶饰直接作图法、检验法、多种切展法等,这些规则可以举一反三灵活运用在复杂女装褶饰结构设计中,为服装专业人员进行褶饰结构设计及制版提供参考。Ruffled sleeve is an innovative sleeve type combining pleated decoration and sleeve,but it is difficult to achieve complex ruffled sleeve by three-dimensional cutting.To solve this problem,ruffled sleeve modeling and structural cutting mode was classified in this paper.According to ruffled sleeve style design,parallel,fan-shaped and mixed cutting methods were applied to determine the number of folds based on the prototype of Donghua women′s sleeve through the plane structure design and three-dimensional sample,finally the women′s structural design and pattern structure was completed.The principles and rules of the design technology of the structure of the complex pleated sleeve were summarized in this paper,including prototype method,parallel cutting method,structure emphasis method,main pleated line determination method,pleated line analogy and copying method,closing method,rotating fan cutting method,paper pattern folding verification method,mixed cutting method,direct drawing method of pleated sleeve,inspection method and multiple cutting methods.These therories can be flexibly applied in the design of complex women′s pleating structure and provide a reference for clothing tradesperson to carry out pleating structure design and pattern making.

关 键 词：褶饰袖 切展法 纸样设计 女装 袖型分类 技术原理 结构设计 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]