涵化视角下清代坤秋帽形制要素探析  

The Ethnic Integration and Cultivation of the Elements of Kunqiu Hat Form

作　　者：李华文 刘瑞璞[2] LI Huawen;LIU Ruipu(Minzu University of China,100081 Bejing;Bejing Institute of Fashion Technology,100105 Bejing)

机构地区：[1]中央民族大学,北京100081 [2]北京服装学院,北京100105

出　　处：《设计艺术研究》2024年第5期145-151,共7页Design Research

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大项目(19ZDA183)。

摘　　要：坤秋帽称谓表明它是清代满族妇女服饰的标志之一,作为便服系统的首服,从结构、形制到工艺、技术独具民族特色,呈现出清代服饰纷繁竞彩的时代特征和多元面貌。然而,根据便服不入典的清律,少有可靠的官方文献记载,学术界对其研究多集中风物学的探讨。事实上,坤秋帽承载了多民族共同体中一体多元特质的物化现象。通过二重证据和比较研究方法,对坤秋帽的历史溯源及其部件元素进行深入分析,研究表明坤秋帽的帽檐、顶饰是满蒙文化交流的物化结果,纹饰系统是满汉文化交流的有利实证,其最早雏形可追溯至辽金时期的女真花珠帽。The name"Kunqiu hat"indicates that it is one of the symbols of Manchu women's clothing in the Qing Dynasty.As a prominent headgear in the casual wear system,it exhibits unique national characteristics in its structure,shape,craftsmanship,and technology,reflecting the diverse and colorful characteristics of Qing Dynasty clothing.According to Qing Dynasty regulations,casual wear was not included in official records,which makes related documentation scarce.Previous research has primarily focused on its connection to feng shui studies.This study posits that the Kunqiu hat embodies the materialization of the unity and diversity traits of a multi-ethnic community.By employing dual evidence from physical objects and literature,combined with a comparative research method,an in-depth analysis is conducted on the historical origins and component elements of the Kunqiu hat.The research results show that the brim and top decoration of the Kunqiu hat are materialized outcomes of cultural exchanges between Manchu and Mongolian cultures,while its decorative system provides valid proof for the study of cultural exchanges between the Manchu and Han cultures.Its prototype can be traced back to the Jurchen flower bead hat from the Liao and Jin Dynasties.

关 键 词：坤秋帽 形制要素 民族交融 涵化 晚清满族 

分 类 号：J5[艺术—艺术设计]