基于蜡酯型乳化剂的液晶结构乳状液的制备研究及应用性能表征  

Preparation and evaluation of the liquid crystal emulsion based on wax ester emulsifier

作　　者：沈玲华 Vincent Hubiche Paula Lennon 庄洁 张瑾 张倩洁 张婉萍 Linghua Shen;Vincent Hubiche;Paula Lennon;Jie Zhuang;Jin Zhang;Qianjie Zhang;Wanping Zhang(Gattefosse(Shanghai)Trading Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 200120,China;GattefosséSAS,Saint-Priest 69804,France;Shanghai Institute of Technology,Shanghai 201418,China)

机构地区：[1]嘉法狮(上海)贸易有限公司,上海200120 [2]GattefosséSAS,法国Saint-Priest 69804 [3]上海应用技术大学,上海201418

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2024年第11期1320-1329,共10页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

基　　金：嘉法狮(上海)贸易有限公司资助项目(J2021-135)。

摘　　要：研究了制备工艺和配方组成(油脂、多元醇、流变调节剂和离子性成分)对蜡酯型乳化剂液晶结构形成的影响,并对其液晶结构乳状液进行了相关的应用性能测试。实验结果表明,一罐法制备乳液更有利于该乳化剂配方体系液晶结构的形成。该乳化剂与植物油脂相溶性较好,乳化能力较佳,对于植物来源酯类油脂,遵循油水界面张力越小,乳化效果越佳,越有利于液晶结构形成的规律;甘油的添加能使体系保持最初优异的液晶结构及其稳定性,但1,3-丁二醇会由于其氢键与水形成的水合基团扰乱界面膜分子排列,从而使体系的液晶结构完整性及稳定性有所降低;离子性成分的添加可通过增加乳化剂紧密排列来明显增强体系的液晶结构;天然流变调节剂的加入,如AX和Tara,可以增强体系液晶结构的高温稳定性,而卡波类可增强其低温稳定性。同时,通过对液晶结构乳状液应用性能的研究发现,使用蜡酯型乳化剂制备得到的液晶结构乳状液保湿性能明显优于普通结构乳状液,且具有一定的缓释作用。The influences of preparation technology and formula composition(oils,polyols,rheological regulators and ionic components)on the formation of liquid crystal structure in the emulsion stabilized with wax ester emulsifier were systematically studied,and the application performance of the liquid crystal emulsion was also tested.The experimental results showed that the one-pot method was more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure of the emulsion system.The emulsifier had good compatibility with vegetable oil and good emulsifying ability.For plant-origin oils,the smaller the interfacial tension between oil and water,the better the emulsifying effect and the more conducive to the formation of liquid crystal structure.The addition of glycerol could maintain the original excellent liquid crystal structure and stability of the system,but 1,3-butanediol would disrupt the molecular arrangement in the interfacial layer due to the hydrated groups formed by hydrogen bonding with water,thus reducing the integrity and stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system;the addition of ionic components could significantly enhance the liquid crystal structure of the system by increasing the compactness of the arrangement of emulsifiers;the addition of natural rheological regulators,such as AX and Tara,could enhance the high-temperature stability of the liquid crystal structure of the system,while Carbopol®type could enhance its low-temperature stability.Meanwhile,by study of the application performance of liquid crystal emulsion,it was found that the liquid crystal emulsion prepared with wax ester emulsifier had better moisturizing performance than the ordinary structured emulsion,and had certain slow-release effect.

关 键 词：液晶结构 蜡酯型乳化剂 制备工艺 配方组成 使用性能 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]