基于苏州地域文化的针织旗袍设计与工艺研究  

Design and Process Study of Knitted Cheongsam Based on Suzhou Regional Culture

作　　者：孙静 尹雪峰[1] 傅菊芬[1] Sun Jing;Yin Xuefeng;Fu Jufen(Applied Technology College of Soochow University,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215325,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州大学应用技术学院,江苏苏州215325

出　　处：《针织工业》2024年第11期117-122,共6页Knitting Industries

基　　金：江苏省高校品牌专业建设工程项目(苏教高函[2020]9号);江苏省本科高校产教融合型品牌专业建设项目(苏教办高函[2023]16号);中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革研究项目(2021BKJGLX364);苏州大学高等教育教改研究课题(苏大教[2023]118号)。

摘　　要：文章对苏州地域文化可视化元素进行提炼,设计相关图案,并应用于针织旗袍及其配饰设计中。从针织旗袍的廓型、提花组织选择、局部结构创新设计、针织工艺实现手法4个方面进行实践研究。在电脑横机编织实践中,运用收放针、加弹力丝、衣片边缘包边处理等方法,处理针织旗袍较大的胸腰差和腰臀差,通过组织变化处理局部造型,更好地呈现出迎合当代人们生活需要与精神需求的针织旗袍,旨在让旗袍文化和苏州地域文化得到进一步发扬,亦使国内的针织服装具有鲜明的地域特征,设计出具有差异化以及将传统文化与流行元素相融合的针织产品。This paper first extracts the visual elements of Suzhou regional culture,and then designs relevant patterns to apply to the design of kntted cheongsam and accessories.On this basis,further practical research is conducted from four aspects,including the profile type of knitted cheongsam,the selection of jacquard kniting,innovative design of local structure,and the implementation techniques of knitting technology.In thespecific computerized flat kniting practice,the methods such as narrowing and widening needles,adding elastic filament,and edge wrapping treatment are used to handle the large chest waist and waist hip differences of knited cheongsam.Through pattern changes,thelocal shapes are processed to better present a knitted cheongsam that meets the needs of contemporary people's daily life and spiritual needs.This study further promotes the cheongsam culture and Suzhou regional culture,whichmakes domestic knitted clothing bear distinct regional characteristics,differentiates and integrates traditional culture and popular elements.

关 键 词：苏州地域文化元素 针织旗袍 图案设计 电脑横机 编织工艺 创新应用 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]