基于再生棉的牛仔纱开发与性能研究  

The Development and Properties Research of Denim Yarn Based on Regenerated Cotton

作　　者：唐嘉妮 汪军[1] 李飞 TANG Jiani;WANG Jun;LI Fei(College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;Anhui Tianzhu Textile Science Technology Co.,Ltd.,Jieshou 236500,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620 [2]安徽省天助纺织科技集团股份有限公司,安徽界首236500

出　　处：《纺织器材》2024年第6期1-4,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为提高再生棉纤维的可纺性和利用率,介绍黑色再生棉纤维和白色原棉纤维的形态及性能,基于双分梳转杯纺纱技术原理,以2种纤维为原料纺制混纺比为10/90~80/20共8个水平的再生棉/棉牛仔纱,分析纺制再生棉/棉混纺纱各工序工艺要点,并进行性能测试及牛仔风格检验。指出:当采用50%再生棉和50%原棉在原材料阶段进行纤维混和成条后可显著改善再生棉可纺性;当再生棉纤维的混用比例大于30%时,纱线的断裂强度指标下降明显;当再生棉混用比例为25%时,纱线外观颜色和质量最佳,其织物外观风格和视觉效果接近传统灰黑牛仔面料。In order to improve the spinnability and utilization rate of regenerated cotton fibers,the morphology and properties of black regenerated cotton fibers and white raw cotton fibers are introduced.Based on the principle of dual openning rotor spinning technology,two kinds of fibers are used as raw materials to spin regenerated cotton/cotton denim yarn with a blending ratio of 10/90~80/20 at total of 8 levels.The key points of each process of spinning regenerated cotton/cotton blending yarn are analyzed,and the properties test and denim style test are carried out.It is pointed out that the spinnability of regenerated cotton can be significantly improved after the fibers of 50%regenerated cotton and 50%raw cotton are blended into slivers in the raw material stage.When the blending ratio of regenerated cotton fiber is more than 30%,the breaking strength index of yarn decreases obviously.When the blending ratio of regenerated cotton is 25%,the appearance color and quality of the yarn are the best,and the appearance style and visual effect of the fabric are close to the traditional gray-black denim fabric.

关 键 词：双分梳转杯纺 再生棉纤维 混纺比 牛仔纱 纱线性能 

分 类 号：TS102.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]