细号纱超轻薄服装面料开发实践  

Development and Practice of Fine Yarn Super Light Clothing Fabric

作　　者：曾语晴[1] 畅娇 ZENG Yuqing;CHANG Jiao(Shaanxi Polytechnic Institute,Xianyang 712000,China;Xianyang Textile Group Co.,Ltd.,Xianyang 713199,China)

机构地区：[1]陕西工业职业技术学院,陕西咸阳712000 [2]咸阳纺织集团有限公司,陕西咸阳713199

出　　处：《纺织器材》2024年第6期43-46,共4页Textile Accessories

摘　　要：为提高纯棉服装面料质量,拓展产品功能的多样性,以长绒棉为原料,采用单纱和股线均为Z捻的同捻向新工艺,开发CJ 5.83×2×CJ 5.83×2 248×248 165.1 ZZ强捻细号纱超轻薄服装面料;通过介绍其工艺流程,分析各工序工艺参数及技术要点,以及测试集聚纺CJ5.83 tex经纬筒纱成纱质量及相关织物质量指标。指出:生产特细号纱的关键是做好原棉选择、前纺各工序工艺参数设置及车间温湿度控制;提高精梳落棉率、减小并条工序牵伸倍数、采取集聚纺纱等措施,能有效降低条干不匀率、提高纤维利用率和伸直平行度,可使单纱强度提高10%;采用集聚纺CJ5.83 tex合股强捻纱生产的超轻薄面料,透气性、吸湿性、耐磨性、防水性好,织机效率可达90%,坯布下机一等品率达92.4%。In order to enhance the quality of pure cotton clothing fabric and broaden the diversity of product functions,long-staple cotton is selected as the raw material,and a new same twist direction process with both single yarn and plied yarn in Z twist is employed to develop the CJ 5.83×2×CJ 5.83×2248×248165.1 ZZ strong twist fine yarn super light clothing fabric.By introducing the process,the process parameters and key technical points of each process are analyzed,and the yarn quality of the compact spinning CJ 5.83 tex warp and weft cheese yarn and related fabric quality indexes are tested,it is pointed out that the key to the production of extra fine yarn lies in selecting the right raw cotton,setting the technological parameters for each fore-spinning process,and controlling the temperature and humidity in the workshop.Measures such as increasing the combing cotton waste rate,reducing the draft multiple in the drawing process,and adopting compact spinning can effectively lower evenness irregularity,enhance fiber utilization rate,and straightness and parallelism,resulting in a 10%increase in single yarn strength.The super light fabric produced with compact spinning CJ 5.83 tex plied strong twist yarn exhibits excellent breathability,hygroscopicity,wear resistance and waterproofness.The loom efficiency can reach up to 90%,and the first-class rate of the grey fabric after weaving is as high as 92.4%.

关 键 词：细号纱 超轻薄 同捻向 强捻 单纱强度 集聚纺 合股 

分 类 号：TS103.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]