蚕丝织物薯莨提染一浴短流程染色工艺及性能  

One bath short-process dyeing of silk fabric with Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour and its properties

作　　者：陈镇[1,2] 邱亚军 李苏扬 徐家辉 马建淋 CHEN Zhen;QIU Yajun;LI Suyang;XU Jiahui;MA Jianlin(Innovation Institute of Advanced Functional Materials at Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan 411104,Hunan,China;Hunan Engineering Research Center for Short-Process Intelligent Textile,Hunan Institute of Engineering,Xiangtan 411104,Hunan,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering(International Institute of Silk),Zhejiang University of Technology,Hangzhou 310018,Zhejiang,China)

机构地区：[1]湖南工程学院先进功能材料创新研究院,湖南湘潭411104 [2]湖南工程学院短流程智能纺织湖南省工程研究中心,湖南湘潭411104 [3]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院(国际丝绸学院),浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2024年第11期44-48,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：湖南省自然科学基金(2022JJ50114)。

摘　　要：采用植物染料提染一浴短流程技术对蚕丝织物进行薯莨染色,确定了较优工艺参数,并测试了上染织物的染色性能。结果表明,蚕丝织物薯莨提染一浴短流程较优工艺参数为:染色温度90℃,保温时间60 min,染浴pH值6,薯莨质量浓度30 g/L,氯化钠薯莨质量浓度10 g/L。在此条件下,织物染得较明艳的红棕色,K/S值为5.647,光谱三刺激值X为28.594、Y为23.726、Z为9.687;织物耐干摩擦色牢度为4级,耐湿摩擦色牢度为4级,耐皂洗褪色牢度为3级,耐皂洗沾色牢度为4级,染色性能较好。One bath short-process dyeing of silk fabric with Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour is carried out,the optimum process parameters are determined,and the dyeing performance of the dyed fabrics is also tested.The results showed that the optimum process for one bath silk dyeing with Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour are:dyeing at 90℃for 60 min with pH value of 6,Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour of 30 g/L,and sodium chloride Dioscorea Cirrhosa Lour of 10 g/L.Under these conditions,the fabric can be dyed into a bright reddish brown color with a K/S value of 5.647,spectral tristimulus values of X=28.594,Y=23.726,and Z=9.687;The dyeing performance is good with color fastness to dry rubbing of 4,to wet rubbing of 4,to soaping fading of 3,and to soaping staining of 4.

关 键 词：蚕丝织物 植物染料 色牢度 色深值 薯莨 一浴法 短流程 

分 类 号：TS193.62[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]