一体织造双层联合色织填芯产品的设计  

Design of integrated weaving double layer combined yarn weaving core filling products

作　　者：孙宏[1] 陶磊 靳雯卿 SUN Hong;TAO Lei;JIN Wenqing(College of Textile,Changzhou Texitile and Garment Insititute,Changzhou 213164,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院纺织学院,江苏常州213164

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2024年第11期73-76,92,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：江苏省高等学校基础科学(自然科学)研究面上项目(21KJB540001);江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2020336);江苏省大学生创新创业训练计划项目(202112807020Y);常州市科技计划资助项目(CJ20210042);2022年度常州市青年科技人才托举工程项目[常科协(2022)13号]。

摘　　要：为了探讨基于一体织造成型技术的色织双层中空填芯织物的设计原理和方法,选用天然棉纤维及再生纤维混纺纱为原料,再生涤纶三维卷曲纤维为填芯料,以平纹地表里换层双层组织形成的空心管或袋为主要结构,与经起花组织、灯芯绒组织、三维组织联合使用,根据纹样设计图进行组织结构设计和上机工艺设计,运用多臂织机进行一体织造。通过研制得出:表里换层双层中空结构与其他组织部分的紧度保持一致;根据充管尺寸大小进行双层中空结构的宽度设计,且通道贯通;边界要设计过渡组织,避免纰裂,防止芯材钻出。开发的提花管状填芯产品、间隔方块填芯灯芯绒、蜂窝方块填芯产品具有立体凹凸的时尚外观,手感舒适,配色自然,可满足市场个性化、高端化需求。In order to explore the design principles and methods of color woven double-layer hollow core filling fabric based on integrated weaving and forming technology,natural cotton fiber and recycled fiber blended yarn are selected as raw materials,recycled polyester three-dimensional curled fiber is used as core filling material,and hollow pipes or bags formed by replacing double layers of tissue on the plain surface are used as the main structure along with the warp weave,corduroy weave,and three-dimensional weave.The structure design and machine process design are carried out according to the pattern design drawing,and a multi arm loom is used for integrated weaving.Through research and development,it has been found that the tightness of the double-layer hollow structure with inner and outer layers is consistent with other organizational parts;Design the width of the double-layer hollow structure based on the size of the filling pipe,and ensure that the channels are connected;The boundary should be designed with a transitional organization to avoid slipping and prevent the core material from drilling out.The developed jacquard tubular core filling products,interval block core filling corduroy,and honeycomb block core filling products have a three-dimensional concave convex fashionable appearance,comfortable feel,and natural color matching,meeting the personalized and high-end needs of the market.

关 键 词：双层组织 中空结构 一体织造成型 色织物 织物设计 

分 类 号：TS105.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]