基于KANO-SEM模型的改良旗袍设计需求分析  

Demand analysis of modified cheongsam design based on KANO-SEM model

作　　者：习佳欣 赵蒙蒙 XI Jiaxin;ZHAO Mengmeng(School of Textiles and Fashion,Shanghai University of Engineering Science,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]上海工程技术大学纺织服装学院,上海201620

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第12期33-42,共10页Journal of Silk

基　　金：上海市大学生创新项目(cs2409007)。

摘　　要：为明确顾客对于改良旗袍的核心设计需求,提升顾客的穿着体验满意度,文章对改良旗袍设计过程中影响顾客满意度的需求要素进行挖掘,共提炼出7项需求类别和29项需求要素。通过Kano模型对这些要素进行归类分析,并借助四象限图优化要素的属性,建立结构方程模型来确定重要性程度,进而分析在改良旗袍设计中各需求要素的优先级顺序。研究得出,顾客在改良旗袍设计中更加注重版型合体性、襟形及袖形方面的设计需求;在款式设计方面,顾客对于方襟、连肩袖、圆领的满意度最高;在版型工艺方面,顾客对于胸部较合体、滚边工艺的需求较高;在面料方面,顾客更加看重面料的透气性能。As one of the representative of Chinese women’s traditional costumes,the cheongsam has unique design elements and profound cultural connotations.It has evolved through the ages to become a model for the fusion of traditional Chinese culture and fashion,as well as a typical representative of modern Chinese women’s clothing.The emergence of modified cheongsams has injected new vigour into the design of traditional cheongsams,successfully integrating tradition and fashion and promoting the inheritance and innovation of traditional culture.Improved and innovative design of cheongsams can not only keep pace with the times to meet the aesthetic needs of modern society,expand the cheongsam-wearing community,but also better integrate the excellent traditional culture carried by cheongsams into modern life.To clarify the core design requirements of customers for modified cheongsams,and to enhance the satisfaction of customers’wearing experience,this paper mines the demand elements affecting customer satisfaction in the design process of modified cheongsams,and extracts a total of seven demand categories and 29 demand elements.These demand elements are categorized and analyzed through the Kano model,the attributes of the demand elements are optimized with the four-quadrant diagram,the structural equation model is established to determine the degree of importance of the demand elements,and the priority order of the demand elements in the design of modified cheongsams is analyzed to provide reference for the design of modified cheongsams in the future.The results of the study show that in the seven demand categories of cheongsam design including pattern,craftsmanship,collar shape,placket shape,sleeve shape,overall shape and fabric,customers pay more attention to the fit of the cheongsam pattern,and the design of the cheongsam’s placket and sleeves.Among the corresponding demand elements under the seven demand categories,the ones with high degree of importance are fit of the chest,piping craftsmanship,round collar,dou

关 键 词：改良旗袍 KANO模型 SEM模型 核心需求 设计方向 穿着体验满意度 

分 类 号：TS941.717.87[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]