孙中山“国货改良服装构想”与中山装  

Sun Yat-sen’s“domestic clothing improvement concept”and the Zhongshan suit

作　　者：朱博伟 刘瑞璞[1] ZHU Bowei;LIU Ruipu(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《丝绸》2024年第12期144-149,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学基金后期资助重点项目(22FYSA004)。

摘　　要：“国货改良服装构想”是孙中山民主革命生涯中,立足民生主义与发展民族纺织业的政治主张,它催生了中山装而非“三民五权”等释义是历史事实。文章基于孙中山生前著述和相关官方文献的考证,就该构想的主要观点和形成过程进行分析。研究表明,“国货改良服装构想”的实施吸取了北洋政府草创《服制案》违背国情全盘西化的失败教训,关注重点经历了从适应国体的礼服制式,到惠及民生常服与维护国家主权军服的转变,其关乎民族生死存亡的现实意义远大于政治目的,中山装正是在这些命运多舛的实践中呼之欲出的。“Providing clothing for the people”was an important goal in Sun Yat-sen’s democratic revolutionary career.Especially after the Xinhai Revolution,he proposed the“domestic clothing improvement concept”based on the theoretical exploration of the people’s livelihood and the practical need to develop the national textile industry.This concept held great guiding significance for the development of modern Chinese clothing culture and was intricately connected to the creation of the two types of Zhongshan suits.This article primarily studies Sun Yat-sen’s writings,such as Letter from the President to the National Products Maintenance Association and The Three Principles of the People.It examines the historical background,events,and official documents related to the“domestic clothing improvement concept”,analyzing the formation of its main ideas and the evolution of its content.The analysis clarifies the process by which this concept evolved from initial theoretical explorations during the early Republic of China,to the lessons learned from the failure of the Beiyang Government’s Uniform Regulations,and finally to the theoretical refinement achieved through the cooperation between the Kuomintang and the Communist Party,which led to the enhancement of the“New Three Principles of the People”.The study reveals that the“domestic clothing improvement concept”was a constantly refined political proposition by Sun Yat-sen,responding to the objective realities of the modern democratic revolutionary environment in China.Its development underwent two stages:the first stage was the formulation of its principles.At the founding of the Republic of China,Sun Yat-sen,aiming to preserve national goods,proposed the“broad adoption of Western systems with improvements”and the concept that“materials should be sourced domestically”,advocating for an orderly change of clothing among the populace.However,due to the restorationist ideology of the remnants of the feudal imperial system,the warlord government did

关 键 词：孙中山 中山装 国货改良服装构想 民生主义 服制案 民族纺织 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]