羊毛纱罗织物的设计开发及其湿舒适性能  

Design and development of wool leno fabrics and their moisture comfort performance

作　　者：刘蕴莹 张谱凡[1,2] 薛文良 葛兰[1,2] Liu Yunying;Zhang Pufan;Xue Wenliang;Ge Lan(Engineering Research Center of Technical Textiles,Ministry of Education,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China;College of Textiles,Donghua University,Shanghai 201620,China)

机构地区：[1]东华大学产业用纺织品教育部工程研究中心,上海201620 [2]东华大学纺织学院,上海201620

出　　处：《产业用纺织品》2024年第11期30-36,共7页Technical Textiles

基　　金：东华大学中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助(2232024G-06-01)。

摘　　要：针对羊毛在夏季服用面料中应用较少的问题,将高支羊毛纱线和纱罗结构相结合,设计开发夏季羊毛面料。从织造工艺参数的角度出发,基于L 9(33)正交试验方案,在经过加装绞综装置的剑杆织机上织造9种羊毛纱罗织物。测试9种织物的湿舒适性能,包括透气性能、吸水性能、透湿性能和芯吸性能,并进行极差分析,再进一步采用模糊综合评价方法,结合相应的权重向量,对织物湿舒适性能进行综合评价。结果表明:9种织物均表现出良好的湿舒适性能,能够满足夏季服用面料要求。其中,织物S9的湿舒适性能最为优异,其织物结构为四经绞结构、纬纱线密度为10.00 tex×2、纬纱密度为24根/(10 cm)。Aiming at the problem that wool is seldom used in summer fabrics,the design and development of summer wool fabrics is based on the combination of high count wool yarns and leno structures.Based on the L 9(33)orthogonal test scheme,9 kinds of wool leno fabrics were woven on the rapier loom equipped with leno heald.The moisture comfort performance of 9 kinds of fabrics were tested,including air permeability,water absorption,moisture permeability and core absorption,and the range analysis was carried out.Then,the moisture comfort performance of fabrics were evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method combined with the corresponding weight vector.The results showed that all the 9 kinds of fabrics showed good moisture comfort performance and could meet the requirements of summer wear.Among them,fabric S9 had the best moisture comfort performance,which fabric structure was four-warp warp structure,weft thread density was 10.00 tex×2,and weft density was 24/(10 cm).

关 键 词：羊毛 纱罗 正交试验 湿舒适性 模糊综合评价 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]