宋锦纹样在表里接结纟并织物中的设计应用  

Design and application of Song brocade pattern in exterior and interior ikat fabric

作　　者：许磊[1,3] 张蓉 黄紫娟 曹思瑶[1] XU Lei;ZHANG Rong;HUANG Zijua;CHEN Weiwei(Suzhou Institute of Trade﹠Commerce,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215009,China;Suzhou Institute of Fiber Inspection Suzhou,Jiangsu 215128,China;Jiangsu high end textile Intelligent Manufacturing Engineering Research Center,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215009,China)

机构地区：[1]苏州经贸职业技术学院,江苏苏州215009 [2]苏州市纤维检验院,苏州江苏215128 [3]江苏省高端纺织智造工程研究中心,江苏苏州215009

出　　处：《江苏丝绸》2024年第5期20-24,共5页Jiangsu Silk

基　　金：2021年教育部人文社会科学研究项目(21YJC850012);2024年江苏省高校“高质量公共课教学改革研究”专项课题,项目序号177;2021年江苏省高等教育教改研究课题(2021JSJG420);2022年第一批江苏省产学研合作项目(BY2022182)。

摘　　要：为了使国家非遗宋锦和絣织得到创造性转化和创新性发展,提出将宋锦纹样、絣织工艺与表里接结组织进行结合设计表里接结絣织织物。通过对宋锦纹样的解析,发现宋锦纹样具有体现人们对美好生活的向往与追求、等级制度和时节、宗教信仰等特点。以八达晕格子锦、龙纹团花格子锦、汉玉龙纹定胜四方纹三块面料为例,织物正面和反面采用不同的宋锦纹样,将纹样提炼后应用于表里层纱线上,宋锦纹样按照絣织的工艺进行扎经扎纬染色,之后按照表里接结组织上机,在小样机上进行试织得到织物实物。将宋锦纹样经过提炼后通过絣织技艺将纹样应用于表里接结织物,形成的织物风格独特、应用广泛,是对宋锦和絣织技艺有效传承和创新。In order to achieve the creative transformation and innovative development of song brocade and tussah weaving of the national intangible cultural heritage,it is proposed to combine song brocade pattern,tussah weaving technology with the outer and inner knot to design the outer and inner knot Tussah Fabric.Through the analysis of song brocade patterns,it is found that song brocade patterns have the characteristics of reflecting people's yearning and pursuit for a better life,hierarchy and season,religious beliefs and so on.Taking Bada halo Plaid brocade,dragon pattern Tuan Plaid brocade,and Hanyu dragon pattern Dingsheng square pattern as examples,different song brocade patterns are used on the front and back of the fabric.After refining the patterns,they are applied to the surface and inner yarn.The song brocade patterns on the surface and inner yarn are dyed by warp binding and weft binding according to the weaving process,and then they are put on the machine according to the surface and inner knot organization.The real fabric is obtained by trial weaving on the small sample machine.It is believed that:after refining the patterns of song brocade,the patterns are applied to the exterior and interior bonded fabrics through the weaving technology,and the resulting fabric has a unique style and is widely used,which is an effective inheritance and innovation of song brocade and the weaving technology.

关 键 词：絣织 表里接结结构 宋锦纹样 八达晕锦 格子锦 汉玉龙纹 定胜四方纹 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]