审美选择与时尚演进的原境探析——以路易十六王后的三幅肖像画为个案  

Decoding the Original Context of Aesthetic Choice and Fashion Evolution-Taking Thr Portraits of Queen Louis XVI as a Case Study

作　　者：欧娜 Ou Na

机构地区：[1]北京大学艺术学院

出　　处：《美术观察》2024年第12期50-59,共10页Art Observation

摘　　要：自17世纪起,法国成为欧洲文化艺术的中心,其“法式风格”的宫廷礼仪和服饰制度不仅制定了整个欧洲的“流行准则”,更引发了自19世纪起萌生的现代时尚精神。法国宫廷女画家勒布伦为路易十六王后玛丽·安托瓦内特绘制的三幅肖像画,因为徘徊在王室肖像画图式规则与彼时审美道德的内外而引发的所谓“丑闻”,在无形中传播了崇尚自然、顺应人性的启蒙思想,并有形地助推了女装朝着舒适为本、彰显个性的方向发展。本文借助图像分析,结合历史文献,还原了肖像画的原境,系统地梳理了以下三个核心维度:首先,细致探讨了三幅画作所呈现的服装款式、面料质地、珠宝配饰、场景与鲜花等图式元素,阐明其背后的社会象征与文化义含;其次,同作为女性的勒布伦,巧妙平衡了创新与传统之间的张力,以其精湛的绘画技巧,富有创意地捕捉到接近王后真实性格的神情与外貌,为观者呈现出一种高度个性化的形象表达;最后,法国民众将王后的奢华时尚选择归因于其哈布斯堡家族的“外来者”背景,而这一身份特质与宫廷及社会的法式传统格格不入,成为舆论谴责的焦点。Since the 17th century,France has become the center of European culture and art,and its"French style"(a la francaise)court etiquette and costume system not only established the fashion standard all over Europe,but also triggered the spirit of modern fashion in the 19th century to come.Painted by the French female court painter Vigee Le Brun,Queen Louis XVI Marie Antoinette's three portraits wandered in and out of the rules of royal iconography and the aesthetic morality of the time,thus provoking a"scandal"at the court.Unexpectedly,the scandal caused by the portraits spread the Enlightenment thoughts of veneration of nature and response of humanity on the one hand,and on the other hand,contributed to the development of women's fashion in favor of comfort and individuality.Using image analysis and historical documents,this thesis attempts to revive the original context of the portraits,systematically addressing the following three core dimensions:firstly,the iconographic elements presented in the three paintings,such as clothing styles,fabrics,jewelry,accessories,scenes,and flowers,are carefully explored to illustrate the social symbols and cultural meanings behind them;secondly,Vigee Le Brun,who was also a woman,deftly balanced the tension between innovation and tradition,and creatively captured the facial expression and appearance close to Queen's real character with her superb painting skills,thus presenting a highly personalized expression totheviewer.Lastly,theFrench public attributed the Queen's extravagantfashion choices toher Habsburg backgroundas an outsider,an identity at odds with the Court's French traditions,and became the target of public condemnation.

关 键 词：路易十六王后 勒布伦 王室肖像画 审美选择 时尚演进 

分 类 号：J205[艺术—美术]