O/W/Si多重防晒乳液的制备及性能研究  

Study on the preparation and properties of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion

作　　者：张婉萍 周率 高子豪 朱海洋 Wanping Zhang;Lv Zhou;Zihao Gao;Haiyang Zhu(School of Perfume Aroma and Cosmetics,Shanghai Institute of Technology,Shanghai 201418,China;Industrial Institute of Shanghai Oriental Beauty Valley,Shanghai 201403,China;Shanghai Ruxi Bio-Tech Co.,Ltd.,Shanghai 201415,China)

机构地区：[1]上海应用技术大学香料香精化妆品学部,上海201418 [2]上海东方美谷产业研究院,上海201403 [3]上海儒溪生物科技有限公司,上海201415

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2024年第12期1447-1455,共9页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：为解决防晒乳液中有机防晒剂带来的油腻感和刺激性风险,文章使用包覆了有机防晒剂的固体脂质纳米粒,通过两步乳化法制备了外油相为硅油,内油相为有机防晒剂的O/W/Si多重防晒乳液;分析了外硅油相体积比、W/O乳化剂用量、无机盐对乳液形成及稳定性的影响,深入研究了不同类型防晒乳液的体外防晒性能、抗水性及防晒剂皮肤渗透性能的不同。结果显示,在实验条件下,含有22.5%的外硅油相、2.5%的乳化剂及0.2%的NaCl所制得的O/W/Si多重防晒乳液稳定性最佳;O/W/Si多重防晒乳液的SPF值和抗水性略高于W/O防晒乳液,但显著高于O/W防晒乳液;对比于W/O防晒乳液,O/W/Si多重防晒乳液中有机防晒剂的体外经皮渗透率降低了约60%,具备更高安全性,展现了在防晒化妆品中的良好应用前景。To solve the greasiness and irritation risks brought about by organic sun-screening agents in sunscreen emulsions,in this work,a sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was prepared by two-step emulsification method,in which the outer oil phase was silicone oil and the inner oil phase was solid lipid nanoparticles coated with organic sun-screening agent.Several influencing factors on the formation and stability of the emulsion were analyzed,including inorganic salts,the volume fraction of outer oil phase(silicone oil),and the dosage of W/O emulsifier.The in vitro sunscreen performance,water resistance and skin permeability of different types of sunscreen emulsions were further studied.The results showed that the sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion containing 22.5%silicone oil,2.5%emulsifier and 0.2%NaCl had the best stability under the experimental conditions.The SPF value and water resistance of sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion were slightly higher than those of sunscreen W/O emulsion,but significantly higher than those of sunscreen O/W emulsion.Compared with sunscreen W/O emulsion,the in vitro transdermal permeability of organic sun-screening agent in sunscreen O/W/Si multiple emulsion was reduced by approximately 60%,indicative of higher safety and good application prospect in sunscreen cosmetics.

关 键 词：O/W/Si多重结构乳状液 有机防晒剂 防晒性能 抗水性 经皮渗透性 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]