基于毛囊生长周期机制评估防脱化妆品功效的研究进展  

A review of methods for evaluating effectiveness of cosmetic products and ingredients based on mechanisms of the human hair growth cycle

作　　者：张嘉琪 万可宁 Ranjit Kaur Bhogal 浦铭铭 顾佳音 盘瑶 Jiaqi Zhang;Kening Wan;Ranjit Kaur Bhogal;Mingming Pu;Jiayin Gu;Yao Pan(Department of Cosmetics,School of Light Industry Science and Engineering,Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China;Beijing Key Laboratory of Plant Research and Development,Beijing 100048,China;Unilever Research&Development Shanghai Center,Shanghai 200335,China;Unilever Research&Development Colworth Center,Bedfordshire MK441LQ,UK)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学轻工科学与工程学院化妆品系,北京100048 [2]北京市植物资源研究开发重点实验室,北京100048 [3]联合利华上海研发中心,上海200335 [4]联合利华科沃斯研发中心,英国贝德福德郡MK441LQ

出　　处：《日用化学工业（中英文）》2024年第12期1504-1514,共11页China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：近年来,受到脱发困扰的人群数量持续增加并向年轻化发展,消费者对防脱发产品的多样化需求日渐增多,国内外对防脱发功效原料和产品的研发越来越重视。然而,针对防脱发化妆品功效评估和功效成分的测试方法尚无统一标准,因此亟待建立完善的评价体系用于衡量防脱发化妆品功效。本文从毛发的基本结构和毛囊的生长周期出发,梳理了调控毛囊周期的相关信号分子、信号通路和反馈机制,为防脱发活性成分的作用机理和功效验证,以及防脱发产品的功效评估的相关方法和技术提供了基本理解,并基于正常毛发周期的变化提出了减少和延缓脱发的方法以及相应的化妆品策略。本文旨在基于毛囊生长周期机制为防脱发功效原料和产品的功效评估提供建议,从而为未来防脱发功效原料和产品研发提供参考标准。With the increasing incidence of hair loss and especially among younger population in recent years,the demand for diversified products on anti-hair loss solutions is growing and the market of cosmetic products expanding accordingly.Worldwide attention is being paid to the research and development of anti-hair loss actives,while there is no unified standard for the efficacy evaluation and testing methods of anti-hair loss cosmetics.Therefore,it is critical to establish standardized methodology for assessing the effectiveness of anti-hair loss actives and their cosmetic products.In this review,an overview of the human hair follicle structure,the hair follicle cycle,and the biological pathways and signaling mechanisms involved in hair growth are summarized.This provides the fundamental understanding of human hair growth for reviewing anti-hair loss actives and cosmetic hair loss products,and respective methods and techniques applied for evaluating their efficacy.Additionally,changes in the normal hair cycle,and corresponding cosmetic strategies to slow down and reduce hair loss have been provided.This review aims to provide recommendations for evaluating the effectiveness of anti-hair loss actives on the mechanisms involved in the hair follicle growth cycle,and so provide criteria for new technology development and scientific research for cosmetic products.

关 键 词：防脱发 化妆品功效评价 功效成分 毛囊生长周期 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]