羊毛单纱合股捻度对针织物纬斜程度的影响分析  

Influence of the single wool yarn twist on the weft incline of knitted fabric

作　　者：徐敏 李文雅 周其兵 沈晓飞[3] XU Min;LI Wenya;ZHOU Qibing;SHEN Xiaofei(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Xi′an Polytechnic University,Xi′an,Shaanxi 710048,China;Zhangjiagang Yangtse Spinning Co.,Ltd.,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215611,China;Suzhou Huafei Textile Co.,Ltd.,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215011,China)

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学纺织科学与工程学院,陕西西安710048 [2]张家港扬子纺纱有限公司,江苏苏州215611 [3]苏州市华飞纺织科技有限公司,江苏苏州215011

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第11期1-5,共5页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：中国纺织工业联合会科技指导性项目(2022020);陕西省教育厅重点科学研究计划项目(20JY026);陕西省重点研发计划一般项目(2024GX-YBXM-569);西安工程大学博士科研基金项目(BS202105)。

摘　　要：为了改善针织物纬斜程度,以羊毛单纱合股捻度为研究对象,分析不同捻度条件下的针织物纬斜程度。通过观察针织物纬斜的变化规律,调整股线捻度数值和加捻方式,最终确定股线的平衡捻度,从而降低针织物纬斜。保持单纱Z向630捻/m不变、股线以S向380捻/m为基准捻度,将经过60 d松弛的羊毛单纱合股加基准捻度,分析股线在捻度作用下的平衡状态。结果表明:单纱捻度为Z向630捻/m时,股线的平衡捻度为S向125捻/m,此时针织物纬斜程度最小,纬斜角度为0.48°;股线的平衡捻度受直接加捻和间接加捻方式的影响,间接加捻的股线内应力是直接加捻的4.46倍,应采取间接加捻得到股线平衡捻度,同时间接加捻不受捻度数值大小的影响。In order to improve the weft skew degree of knitted fabrics,the weft skew degree of knitted fabrics under different twist conditions was analyzed with single wool yarn twist as the research object.By observing the variation law of weft skew,adjusting twist value and twisting mode of strand,the balance twist of strand was determined and the weft skew of knitted fabric was reduced.Keeping the single yarn Z-direction 630 twists/m unchanged and the strand twist S direction 380 twists/m as the reference twist,the single wool yarn plying after 60 days of relaxation was added to the reference twist to analyze the balance state of the strand under the action of twist.The results show that when the single twist is Z to 630 twists/m,the balance twist of strand is S to 125 twists/m,and the weft skew degree of knitted fabric is the smallest,and the weft skew angle is 0.48°.The balance twist of strand is affected by direct twisting and indirect twisting.The internal stress of indirect twisting is 446 times that of direct twisting.The balance twist of strand should be obtained by indirect twisting,and indirect twisting is not affected by the value of twist.

关 键 词：捻度 羊毛单纱 针织物 纬斜 纱线结构 抗扭刚度 

分 类 号：TS104[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS184[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]