单向导湿横编鞋面的结构设计与性能研究  

Structural design and performance of unidirectional moisture⁃transfer flat⁃knitted upper fabric

作　　者：石彬琳 董智佳 韩璐怡 葛美彤 马丕波 SHI Binlin;DONG Zhijia;HAN Luyi;GE Meitong;MA Pibo(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第11期6-13,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(52373058,61902150);中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J202408)。

摘　　要：为了提升脚部出汗量多的运动场景中横编鞋面的汗液导湿性,基于差动毛细效应,采用9.33 tex/(384 f)涤纶低弹纱(DTY)编织织物正面、5.55 tex/(24 f)DTY和24.44 tex涤纶热熔复丝编织织物反面,设计并编织了5种具有单向导湿功能的双面横编织物,并对横编织物进行力学性能和热湿舒适性测试。结果发现,5种织物拉伸断裂强度大于16 N/mm、撕裂强力峰值平均值大于50 N、Taber法摩擦织物正面2 500次外观评级大于等于4级、马丁代尔羊毛摩擦布干摩擦织物反面25 000次无破损,力学性能符合鞋面用面料相关国家及行业标准。在热湿舒适性方面,5种织物的透气率为150~260 mm/s、透湿率为3 500~5 000 g/(m^(2)·d)、芯吸高度大于12 cm、单向传递指数和液态水动态传递综合指数评级均在4级及以上,说明所设计的鞋面组织整体力学性能合格且具有优异单向导湿性能,为易出汗运动人群的运动鞋面功能及结构设计提供开发思路。In order to improve the sweat conductivity of flat-knitted uppers in sports scenes with a lot of sweat on feet,based on the differential capillary effect,933 tex/(384 f)DTY was chosen to knit the front of fabric,5.55 tex/(24 f)DTY and 24.44 tex polyester hot melt composite was chosen to knit the back.Five unidirectional moisture-transfer flat-knitted upper fabrics were designed and knitted,and their mechanical properties and thermal-moisture comfortable properties were tested.The results show that the tenacity of the five fabrics was higher than 16 N/mm,the average value of the tear force was higher than 50 N,the appearance rating of the front side of the fabrics on Taber test was higher than or equal to 4 for 2500 times,and the back side on Martindale test with wool friction fabric was not damaged for 25000 times,indicating that the mechanical properties of the five fabrics met the relevant national and industry standards for shoe upper.In terms of thermal and humidity comfort,the permeating rate was 150-260 mm/s,the moisture permeability was 3500-5000 g/(m^(2)·d),the wicking height was higher than 12 cm,and accumulative one-way transport capacity and overall moisture management capability were rated at 4 or above,indicating that the designed upper fabrics had qualified mechanical properties and good unidirectional moisture-transfer capacity,and provided ideas for the function and structure design of sports shoes for people who are prone to sweating and exercising.

关 键 词：单向导湿 横编鞋面 双面织物 织物性能 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]