镂空及其在服装立体裁剪中的应用技术分析  

Analysis of hollow out and its application in three dimensional cutting of clothing

作　　者：邹平[1] 王丽婷 ZOU Ping;WANG Liting(School of Textiles and Garment,Liaodong University,Dandong,Liaoning 118003,China)

机构地区：[1]辽东学院纺织服装学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第11期67-75,共9页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：针对镂空在服装立体裁剪中虽有一定的实践应用但缺乏系统的分类和理论总结的现状,从镂空在服装立体裁剪技术中的应用入手,按照技法将镂空分为部位造型、剪切、破洞、打孔、编结、刺绣、拼叠、抽纱、撕破、烧花共10类;总结镂空在立体裁剪中的应用技术规律,包括改变材料肌理结构、整合零散材料、减型处理、省道转移、造型分割、重叠拼接、轮廓造型镂空技术等,并分析其在实用装、礼服、创意性服装、内衣中的实际应用;最后对镂空在服装立体裁剪中的操作方法及技巧进行实例应用,设计了1款重叠拼接镂空衣,可为镂空在服装立体裁剪中的应用提供更多的创意参考。In view of the fact that hollow out has certain practical application in three-dimensional clothing cutting,but lacks systematic classification and theoretical summary,this paper starting from the application of hollowed-out in three-dimensional clothing cutting technology,according to techniques,hollowed-out can be divided into 10 categories:part modeling,cutting,breaking,punching,knitting,embroidery,patchwork,drawing,tearing and burning.The application technology of hollowing in three-dimensional cutting was summarized,including changing the texture and structure of materials,integration of fragmented materials,reduction treatment,darts transfer,shape segmentation,overlapping splicing,contour hollowing technology law,and its practical application in practical wear,dress,creative clothing,underwear was analyzed.Finally,the operation methods and skills of the hollowing in the three-dimensional cutting of clothing were applied to design an overlapping splicing hollowing suit.This paper can provide more creative reference for the application of hollowing method in garment three-dimensional cutting.

关 键 词：镂空 技术规律 服装立体裁剪 剪切 拼叠 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]