宋服新论:仕女图中的窄衣流与禁奢令下的反教化  

A further study on costume of the Song Dynasty:Trend of slender clothes in the painting of ladies and attitude of anti-indoctrination under the bans on using luxury items

作　　者：朱小菊 杨汝林 蔡欣[1,2,3,4,5] ZHU Xiaoju;YANG Rulin;CAI Xin(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheriting and Products Design Digital Technology Ministry of Culture,P.R.China,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Silk and Fashion Culture,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Keyi College,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;China National Silk Museum,Hangzhou 310002,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,杭州310018 [4]浙江理工大学科技与艺术学院,杭州310018 [5]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《浙江理工大学学报（社会科学版）》2024年第6期712-720,共9页Journal of Zhejiang Sci-Tech University：Social Sciences

基　　金：国家社会科学基金项目(22WYSB008);浙江理工大学哲学社会科学科研繁荣计划项目(21076179-N);绍兴市鉴湖青年学者培育计划(绍市社联[2023]27号文件)。

摘　　要：为探讨宋代女性日常服饰既非绝对保守紧窄又非完全朴素雅致的特征及其形成的背景,以官修史书和笔记小说中关于服饰的记载作为主要研究资料,同时辅以绘画作品中的女性形象以及出土的宋代染服文物,综合运用文献研读法、图像分析法、个案分析法、三重证据法,对宋代女性的日常服饰进行了系统分析。研究结果表明:宋代女性日常服饰的“窄小”特征的雏形可追溯至五代时期;士庶女性的日常服饰受到法令规范的直接影响,而民众自发形成的反教化态度使得用金工艺、珠翠材质和胡蕃元素处于“禁不止”的状态,进而推动了宋服时尚的发展。该研究不仅为理解宋代服饰文化提供了新视角,也为研究其他历史时期的服饰文化提供了有益思路。To explore the characteristics of Song women's daily dress,which was neither absolutely conservative and narrow,nor completely plain and elegant,and the background of its formation,this article,taking the literature records about costumes in official history books and note-style novels as the main research materials,supplemented by the female images depicted in the paintings and the unearthed relics of textiles and costumes in the Song Dynasty,conducts a relatively systematic analysis of women's daily outfits in the Song Dynasty by comprehensively applying the methods of literature study,image analysis,case study analysis and triple evidence.Research shows that the "slender" characteristics of women's daily clothing in the Song Dynasty had already taken shape as early as the Five Dynasties period,and that the daily dress of the women of the common people was directly affected by the norms established by the decree,and people's spontaneous anti-education attitude made the use of gold craftsmanship,pearl and the feathers of emerald birds and Hufu elements "persistent despite repeated prohibition",reversely promoting the development of fashion of the Song Dynasty costume.This study not only provides a new perspective for the understanding of Song Dynasty costume culture,but also useful ideas for the study of other historical costume culture.

关 键 词：宋服 窄衣 禁奢令 禁胡令 反教化 

分 类 号：K892.98[历史地理—民俗学]