清代传世纺织品文物中捻金线的组织结构与工艺分析  

Analysis and Research on Golden Thread Technology of Palace Textile Relics in Qing Dynasty

作　　者：曲婷婷 QU Tingting(Conservation Department,The Palace Museum,Beijing 100009,China)

机构地区：[1]故宫博物院,北京100009

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2024年第4期41-47,共7页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：故宫博物院养心殿寝具类纺织品文物保护修复方法研究项目。

摘　　要：为研究清代宫廷用纺织品文物中的捻金线工艺,本研究选取故宫博物院院藏文物“蓝色呢绣云蝠纹炕单”为样本。通过采集不同点位的捻金线样品,利用光学显微镜与扫描电镜结合的方式对捻金线样品进行形貌观察及结构尺寸测量,同时用能谱测试手段分析金箔层的金属元素组成和含量。结果表明:捻金线由芯线、背衬层和金箔层构成;芯线的材质均为蚕丝,颜色有红色、金色和淡金色3种;背衬层厚度在23~34μm之间,颜色有灰白色和暗红色2种;捻金线宽度在241~492μm之间;金箔层宽度在403~637μm之间,厚度在0.61~0.63μm之间,主要成分为金、银、铜、铁4种元素,含金量最低为66%,最高为90%。本研究可为梳理清代宫廷寝具类文物中捻金线工艺的保护和修复方案提供依据。In order to study the gold thread technology used in the palace textile relics of Qing Dynasty,the blanket relic“blue embroidered cloud and bat pattern sheet”from the collection of the Palace Museum was selected as a sample.By collecting twisted gold thread samples at different points,the morphology and structural dimensions of the twisted gold thread samples were observed by combining optical microscopy with scanning electron microscopy,and the metal element composition and content of the gold foil layer were analyzed by energy spectrum testing.The result shows that the twisted gold thread is composed of core thread,a backing layer and a gold foil layer.The core thread is made of silk,with the colors of red,gold and light gold.The thickness of the backing layer is between 23~34μm,with the colors of grayish white and dark red.The width of the gold foil layer is between 403~637μm,and the thickness is between 0.61~0.63μm.The main components include gold,silver,copper,and iron,with gold content ranging from a minimum of 66%to a maximum of 90%.The study can provide a basis for formulating preservation and restoration plans of the gold thread technology in the bedding cultural relics of the Qing Dynasty.

关 键 词：捻金线 形貌观察 材质分析 制作工艺 

分 类 号：TS941.4[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]