半合体服装菱形插角袖的推板研究与分析  

Research and Analysis on the Grading of Kimono Sleeve with Diamond-shaped Inserts in Half-fit Clothing

作　　者：刘孟孟 冯岩 许勃[1] 郭昱成 郭瑞良[1] LIU Mengmeng;FENG Yan;XU Bo;GUO Yucheng;GUO Ruiliang(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2024年第4期48-57,共10页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：市属高校分类发展-北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871);北京服装学院新进青年教师项目(NHFZ20220018);北京市教育委员会科技计划项目(KM202210012001)。

摘　　要：本研究针对菱形插角袖结构的半合体服装,探讨了袖子和衣身相连时的推板技术难题。通过采用点放码法,首先对前后袖窿弧线处的衣袖样片进行虚拟分割并合理分配档差,进而对衣身部分进行推板。随后通过切换基准线、基准点和坐标轴方向对袖子部分和菱形插角片进行推板。在验证环节采用服装CAD软件测量多号型样板尺寸和软尺测量5件样衣尺寸2种方式进行检验。研究结果表明,该推板方式通过在袖窿弧线处对衣袖样片进行虚拟分割,能够精确分配衣身、袖子和菱形插角片的档差;选取I、I′以及W点分别作为前后衣袖片和菱形插角片的基准点,此方法科学合理;在对前后袖子和插角片推板时,实时调整坐标轴方向的方法简便且准确,整体推板后样板保型性良好。This study addresses the technical challenges of the grading process of kimono sleeves with diamond-shaped inserts in Half-fit Clothing.By adopting the Point-grading method in the whole research period,firstly,virtual dividing lines are given in the AH points in the front and back sleeves to allot the grading numbers reasonably.Then,the reference lines,reference points and coordinate axis directions are shifted in the size grading process for the kimono sleeve and the diamond-shaped insert.In the verification phase,rules in garment CAD software are used to measure the key sizes of 5 garment samples.The results indicate that this grading method,by using virtual dividing lines in the AH points in the front and back sleeves,can help to allot the grading numbers precisely in the garment body,sleeves and diamond-shaped insert areas.It is scientific and reasonable to select points I,I′and W as the reference points of the front and back sleeves and diamond-shaped inserts respectively.The method of adjusting coordinate axis directions in time in the grading process is simple and accurate,and the garments are in good shape after size grading.

关 键 词：连身袖 菱形插角 推板 保型性 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]