二战期间美军制式服装“斜襟”结构机制探究  

Structural Mechanism of the“Slash”Based on the Physical Study of U.S.Military Uniforms during World War II

作　　者：李晓阳 常卫民 LI Xiaoyang;CHANG Weimin(School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2024年第4期66-73,共8页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

基　　金：北京服装学院“服装学”新兴交叉学科平台建设项目(11000024T000003073871);培育基金项目(NHFZ20230163);2024年研究生科研创新项目(NHF)20240127。

摘　　要：在第二次世界大战期间,美国军服经历了从传统“维多利亚结构”向现代结构的转变。本研究采用实物与文献互证的方法,对二战时期美国军服的实物样本进行了深入考证与分析。通过对比图像资料和相关文献,揭示了二战时期美军制服普遍采用的异型“斜襟”结构,并进一步探究了这种结构形成的原因,分析了其制度和文化内涵。研究结果显示,美军制服中“异型”门襟的形成与制度及文化传承之间存在着紧密的联系。经过近十年的稳定发展,这一结构为美军制服现代“斜襟”结构的形成奠定了基础。During World War II,the U.S.military uniforms underwent an important transition from the traditional“Victorian structure”to the modern structure.In this study,the physical samples of U.S.military uniforms during the World War II period are examined and analyzed through the method of mutual verification of physical objects and literature.By comparing image data and relevant literature,the shaped“slant placket”structure commonly used in U.S.military uniforms during World War II was revealed,and the reasons for the formation of this structure were further explored,and its institutional and cultural connotations were analyzed.The results showed there was a close connection between the formation of the shaped placket in the U.S.military uniforms and its institutional and cultural heritage.After nearly a decade of steady development before and after World War II,this structure finally laid down the prototype of the modern“slash”structure of the U.S.military uniform.

关 键 词：“斜襟”结构 制式服装 二战美军 实物研究 

分 类 号：TS941.718[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]