牛仔坯布参数对水洗缩率的影响研究  

Research on influences of denim fabric parameters on washing shrinkage rate

作　　者：左祺 秦玉娟 邱地恒 禹晴 邓炜霖 候利生 邓剑光 于晖[1] ZUO Qi;QIN Yujuan;QIU Diheng;YU Qing;DENG Weilin;HOU Lisheng;DENG Jianguang;YU Hui(Collegeof Textile Science and Engineering,Wuyi University,Jiangmen 430073,Guangdong,China;Guangdong Provincial Key Laboratory of Low Carbon Intelligent Manufacturing Technology for High-level Denim Products Jointly Built by Provinces and Cities,Shaoguan Beijiang Smart Textile Technology Co.,Ltd,Shaoguan 512136,Guangdong,China;Shaoguan Blue Star Digital Textile Technology Co.,Ltd,Shaoguan 512136,Guangdong,China)

机构地区：[1]五邑大学纺织科学与工程学院,广东江门529020 [2]韶关市北纺智造科技有限公司省市共建高端牛仔产品低碳智造技术广东省重点实验室,广东韶关512136 [3]韶关市蓝星数字纺织科技有限公司,广东韶关512136

出　　处：《纺织工程学报》2024年第6期12-22,共11页JOURNAL OF ADVANCED TEXTILE ENGINEERING

基　　金：广东省科技计划项目(科技创新平台类)省市共建高端牛仔产品低碳智造技术广东省重点实验室(2022B1212030001);省市共建高端牛仔产品低碳智能制造广东省重点实验室2024年度开放课题(HX24107)。

摘　　要：为了调控并优化牛仔坯布和后续产品的质量和稳定性,采用不同支数和纺纱方式的纱线,通过改变经纬密度和组织结构,制备了多种牛仔坯布,探究了牛仔坯布中的纱线和织物参数对水洗缩率的影响,并使用BP神经网络进行水洗缩率的模拟预测。结果表明:纱线支数、织物密度、经纬紧度以及纺纱方式对水洗缩率有显著影响,可从纱线屈曲和内应力松弛方面考虑纱线和织物在水洗后的尺寸变化规律。BP神经网络模型在预测牛仔坯布水洗缩率方面表现出潜力,尽管在不考虑织物组织的情况下预测准确度有待提高,但在3/1右斜纹结构下,预测准确度可达89.91%(经向)和89.55%(纬向),为牛仔坯布的生产工艺调整提供了理论依据,并对提高牛仔产品的质量和稳定性具有重要意义。In order to regulate and optimize the quality and stability of denim fabric and end products,various denim fabrics have been prepared using yarns with different counts and spinning methods by changing the warp/weft density and fabric pattern structure.The influences of yarn and fabric parameters in denim fabric on washing shrinkage rate were investigated,and the washing shrinkage rate was simulated and predicted by BP neural network.The results show that yarn count,fabric density,warp/weft tightness,and spinning methods have a significant impact on the washing shrinkage rate.The dimensional changes of yarns and fabrics after washing can be considered from the aspects of yarn crimp and internal stress relaxation.The BP neural network model has shown potential in predicting the washing shrinkage rate of denim fabric.Although the prediction accuracy needs to be improved without considering the fabric structure,the prediction accuracy can reach 89.91%(warp)and 89.55%(weft)under the 3/1 right twill structure.This provides the theoretical basis for adjusting the production process of denim fabric and it is of great significance for improving the quality and stability of denim products.

关 键 词：水洗缩率 纱线支数 纺纱方式 织物密度 织物紧度 BP神经网络 

分 类 号：TS111.9[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]