马山一号楚墓素纱绵袍(N1)重构探究  

Reconstructing the Plain Silk Robe(N1) in Mashan No.1 Chu Tomb

作　　者：郭丰秋 曹芳玲 GUO Fengqiu;CAO Fangling(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430073,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2024年第6期8-15,共8页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：湖北省哲学社科重大项目的项目(22ZD084);2024年武汉纺织大学校基金专项;武汉纺织大学研究生创新基金项目(20230428)。

摘　　要：文章以江陵马山一号楚墓出土的素纱绵袍(N1)为研究对象,运用二重证据法和实验考古法,对其形制、结构、裁片数据、布局方式等进行分析和实验性复原,以期最大程度再现服装文物的原本风貌,解密其技术构成,为楚国服饰的复原研究提供一定的参考。研究认为:素纱绵袍的平铺图呈现出“个”字型特征,与中国古代“十”字型特征相区别;上衣腰节线为58 cm、下裳分片共8片,自大襟起摆宽分别为25 cm、20 cm、37 cm、20 cm、20 cm、37 cm、20 cm、25 cm时相对合理;上衣裁剪和拼合方式应为“正裁正拼”,上衣后中线倾斜,拼合后形成一定的落肩量,类似现代制衣中的“收省”技术,体现了中国古代制衣技术的“工效学”意识。This paper takes the plain silk robe(N1) unearthed in Mashan Tomb No.1 in Jiangling as the research object,and applies the twofold evidence method and experimental archaeology method to analyse and experimentally restore its form,structure,cut-out data,layout,etc.,so as to maximally reproduce the original appearance of the clothing relics and decipher its technical composition,and to provide certain references for the restoration research of the costumes of the State of Chu.The following conclusions were drawn from the study:the plain silk robe shows the characteristic of "个",which is different from the characteristic of "十";the waist line of the upper garment is 58cm,and the lower garment is divided into 8 pieces,and the widths of the pendulums from the lapel are 25 cm,20 cm,37 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,37 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,37 cm,20 cm,20 cm,20 cm,37 cm,20 cm,25 cm are relatively reasonable;the way of cutting and assembling the blouse should be "positive cutting and assembling",with the centre line of the blouse tilted at the back to form a certain amount of shoulder drop after assembling,similar to the modern garment-making technique of "closing and saving",which reflects the Chinese style of "cutting and assembling",which is similar to the modern technique of "closing and saving".This is similar to the modern technique of "save" in garment making,which embodies the consciousness of "ergonomics" in ancient Chinese garment making technology.

关 键 词：素纱绵袍 形制考释 复原研究 楚国服饰 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]