基于双向多基色的全色域提花结构模型构建  

Construction of jacquard structure model with full gamut color spaces based on bidirectional multi-primary color

作　　者：陆爽怿 周赳[1,2] LU Shuangyi;ZHOU Jiu(Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou,Zhejiang 310018,China;Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Shengzhou Innovation Research Institute,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 312400,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学嵊州创新研究院,浙江绍兴312400

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第11期88-98,共11页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家社科基金艺术学项目(22BG121)。

摘　　要：针对数码提花结构经纬基色配置及选取受限导致结构显色色域不足的问题,在分层组合设计模式下构建了基于双向多基色的2经4纬的基本模型和2经6纬的衍生模型,以红、绿、黄、蓝、黑、白为纱线色,分别形成48和1440种经纬配置方法及28和124类表里层关系,全息组织被用于调控色相、纯度及明度来扩充提花结构显色色域空间,2种模型的代表性显色组织与显色组合组织总数的最大值分别为3605139与84392722413,最后通过织物模拟来验证2种模型的结构显色适用性。结果表明:经向与经纬双向配置黑、白丝线以及纬向配置红、黄、绿、蓝丝线,利用全息组织可令2种结构模型的结构显色理论色彩数目分别达106级和1011级,为全色域效果的数码提花织物开发及智能化设计研究提供参考。Objective Referring to the issue of gamut color spaces for structural coloring caused by the restricted primary color configuration and selection of warp and weft for digital jacquard structure,jacquard structure with bidirectional multi-primary color was proposed under layered-combination design mode,the way how three factors namely weave repeat R,the quantity of face weft group(s)N and the transition speed M determine the quantity of warp and weft configuration,face and back layer relationship,coloring compound weave-databases and representative weaves and compound weaves for coloring of jacquard structure basic and derived model were revealed,providing theoretical reference to the construction of jacquard structure model with a finite group of primary color threads and the expansion of its structural gamut color spaces.Method First,the construction of jacquard structure model with full gamut color spaces based on bidirectional multi-primary color referred to the structural characteristic of double-layer structure,with only face warp and face weft(s)used for coloring.Besides,the basic model with double warps and quadruple wefts and the derived model with double warps and sextuple wefts were established,4 chromatic colors as well as 2 achromatic colors,namely red,yellow,green,blue,black,and white,were applied to the configuration of thread color,in this case,4 groups of chromatic threads configurated weft-wised only,2 groups of achromatic threads were arranged warp-wisely and bi-directionally,with warp threads configurated with 1∶1 ratio,while weft threads allocated under 1∶1∶1∶1 and 1∶1∶1∶1∶1∶1 ratio respectively.What′s more,the quantity of coloring compound weave-databases and the quantity of representative weaves and compound weaves for coloring of jacquard structure basic and derived model were calculated and analyzed.Last but not least,the applicability of the two structure models were verified through the comparison of fabric simulation.Results Jacquard structure model with full gamut c

关 键 词：织物设计 分层组合设计模式 数码提花 双向多基色 织物结构 结构显色 配色设计 

分 类 号：TS105.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS145.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]