二醋酯纤维织物分散染料免蒸洗数码印花工艺  

Non-steaming digital printing process of diacetate fabric with disperse dyes

作　　者：关芳兰[1] 王建明[1] 陈嘉滢 李淑敏 GUAN Fanglan;WANG Jianming;CHEN Jiaying;LI Shumin(School of Materials Design&Engineering,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;National Innovation Center of Advanced Dyeing and Finishing Technology,Tai′an,Shandong 271000,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院材料设计与工程学院,北京100029 [2]国家先进印染技术创新中心,山东泰安271000

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第12期137-143,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(52173001);国家先进印染创新中心创新项目(ZJ2021A06)。

摘　　要：针对二醋酯纤维织物数码印花采用常压高温汽蒸固色工艺,存在汽蒸时间长,耗能、耗水,且对织物造成损伤的问题,提出采用焙烘固色替代汽蒸固色对二醋酯纤维织物进行免蒸洗直喷式数码印花。采用3种印花增稠剂对二醋酯纤维织物进行预处理,喷墨打印后在不同温度和时间下焙烘固色完成印花。测试了预处理后二醋酯纤维织物的表面接触角、印花织物表观得色量(K/S值);探讨了焙烘温度和预处理助剂用量对分散染料在二醋酯纤维内扩散的影响,并对焙烘固色工艺条件下的数码印花过程进行了色彩管理,测试了印花产品的色牢度。结果表明:采用2.0%增稠剂KF-388对二醋酯纤维织物进行预处理,在200℃焙烘60 s可实现二醋酯纤维织物的免蒸洗数码印花;经色彩管理后,二醋酯纤维织物焙烘固色后的印花得色量可达到并超过汽蒸工艺印花产品;印花织物的耐摩擦色牢度和耐皂洗色牢度均可达到4级,印制过程无需蒸化和水洗。Objective Diacetate fiber is a kind of synthetic fiber which can be naturally degraded,and it is widely used in fashion clothing fabrics.Digital printing technology is an important technical means to broaden diacetate fiber fabrics.Digital printed diacetate fiber fabrics was mainly achieved through high temperature steaming fixation,which was energy and water consuming and also may cause damage to the diacetate fabrics.In order to achieve water and energy saving digital printing process for diacetate fabrics,alternative baking fixation technology for the diacetate digital printing process was put forward.Method Three printing thickeners were used to pretreat the diacetate fabric.After inkjet printing,the printed fabric was baked at different baking temperatures and times.Through testing the surface contact angle of the pretreated diacetate fiber fabric and the color yield(K/S value)of the printed fabric,the type and amount of pretreatment additives,the baking temperature and time were determined.Confocal Raman imaging technology was used to observe disperse dye diffusion in the diacetate fiber to investigate effect of curing temperature and pretreatment additive concentration on the diffusion of disperse dyes in diacetate fibers.Finally,color management and fastness test of printed products were carried out in the digital printing process under the condition of baking and fixing process.Results The color yield of baking printed diacetate fabric reached and exceeded that of steaming printed products.Pretreatment of diacetate fiber with thickener KF-388 made the pretreated fabric obtain the same surface contact angle as that of printing paste thickener pretreated diacetate fiber.Laser Raman imaging proved that more dyes diffused into the diacetate fiber when the baking temperature of the printing diacetate fabric exceeded 200℃and above.The fastness test also showed the disperse dyes did not diffused into the fiber when the printing diacetate fiber fabric was baked at 170-190℃.Most of disperse dyes exfoliated fr

关 键 词：二醋酯纤维织物 免蒸洗 分散染料 数码印花 拉曼深度成像 

分 类 号：TS102.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]