基于热湿舒适性的横编全成形运动内衣的分区设计  

Partition design of flat knitting forming sports underwear based on thermal and humid comfort

作　　者：巫晓雯 方蕾妹 江昆 丛洪莲 WU Xiaowen;FANG Leimei;JIANG Kun;CONG Honglian(Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology,Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Wuxi Pacific Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214041,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学教育部针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡太平针织有限公司,江苏无锡214041

出　　处：《纺织学报》2024年第12期172-179,共8页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：为了改善运动内衣的热湿舒适性,开发具有精细热湿分区功能的横编成形运动内衣,通过研究女性上半身的热湿分布情况,构建了成形运动内衣的热湿分区模型。同时,将超细涤纶与普通涤纶作为原料,设计开发了8种适用于横编运动内衣的组织结构,并对其透湿性、吸湿排汗性和透气性进行测试,基于实验结果采用模糊综合评价法对其热湿舒适性进行评价,得到8种组织的热湿性能优劣顺序。最后结合成形运动内衣热湿分区模型和组织结构综合评价结果设计开发了一款横编成形运动内衣,并通过红外热成像测试验证其具有较好地改善人体热湿平衡的功能。结果表明,双层组织的综合热湿性能优于单层组织,并且双层组织中蜂巢网眼组织因其正反面之间的连接通道数量最多而具有最佳的热湿性能。Objective It is true that the function requirements on female sports underwear are getting higher and higher.In order to improve the thermal and wet comfort of sports underwear,a fine thermal and wet partition design for sports underwear was carried out,combined with flat braid technology to reduce the seam of sports underwear and improve the comfort.Method Based on the study of the distribution of thermat and humidity in women′s upper body,a thermat and humid partition model for forming sports underwear was constructed.At the same time,using DTY as raw materials,eight types of structures suitable for flat knitting sports underwear were designed and developed,and their moisture permeability,moisture absorption,sweat drainage and air permeability were tested.Based on the experimental results,the thermal and humid comfort of the eight structures was evaluated by fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method,and the order of thermal and humid performance was obtained.Results Through the analysis of thermal and humid distribution in the upper body of the human body,it is found that the heat in the upper chest,the middle chest and the back is the highest and the distribution of sweat glands is the most dense.The chest heat is higher,but the distribution of sweat glands is less than the upper chest,the middle chest and the back.Underarm heat is relatively low but sweat glands are densely distributed;The distribution of heat and sweat glands in abdomen and back triangle was medium.The remaining areas are at the edges of the body,where they emit less heat and have fewer sweat glands.The thermal and humid test results show that the moisture permeability of the fabric is inversely proportional to the total density of the fabric.This is because the greater the total density of the fabric,the tighter the water vapor will pass through the pores of the fabric,which will also lead to more contact points between water vapor and the fabric,resulting in poorer moisture permeability of the fabric.The moisture absorption and perspiration

关 键 词：横编 全成形 运动内衣 分区设计 热湿舒适性 

分 类 号：TS186.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]