斜向纬纱变化纬密织物工艺设计探讨  

Discussion on process design of fabrics with diagonal weft direction and varied weft density

作　　者：周锁林[1,2] 陶丽珍 ZHOU Suolin;TAO Lizhen(Changzhou Vocational Institute of Textile and Garment,Changzhou 213164,Jiangsu,China;Changzhou Key Laboratory of Ecological Textile Technology,Changzhou 213164,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏常州213164 [2]常州市生态纺织技术重点实验室,江苏常州213164

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2024年第12期35-39,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：苏高校“青蓝工程”优秀教学团队项目[苏教师函(2021)11号]。

摘　　要：为探索面料开发新路径,丰富面料的不同视觉效果或特殊功能,通过改变织机的打纬机构,采用伺服电动机控制钢筘往复移动来改变织口位置,利用手工织布机来编织织物,对斜向纬纱变化纬密的织造原理进行分析探讨,推演计算了钢筘最大移动距离、纬纱最大倾斜角度、纬纱密度以及纬纱倾斜方向等关键工艺参数,并对几种常规织物组织进行了工艺验证和对比分析。结果表明:纬纱倾斜角度与钢筘最大移动动程成正比,与织物的幅宽成反比;控制钢筘移动动程是斜向纬纱变化纬密织物纬密周期性循环变化的关键;钢筘左右向织机后移的先后顺序能改变纬纱倾斜方向。试验认为:改造往复移动钢筘机构能开发斜向纬纱变化纬密织物,使开发个性化织物成为可能。To explore new paths for fabric development,enrich the different visual effects or special functions of fabrics,innovations are made by changing the beating mechanism of the loom,using servo motor to control the reciprocating movement of the reed to change the position of the shed,experimenting with hand-woven looms to weave fabrics,analyzing and exploring the weaving principle of varied weft density with diagonal weft yarns,deducing and calculating the maximum moving distance of the reed,the maximum inclination angle of the weft yarn,the amount of the weft density,and the weft yarn inclination direction,and conducting process verification and comparative analysis through several conventional fabric weaves.The results show that the angle of weft inclination is proportional to the maximum stroke of the reed and inversely proportional to the width of the fabric.Controlling the stroke of the reed is the key to the periodic cyclic variation of weft density in fabrics with diagonal weft variations.The order of the reed moving backward on the loom can change the direction of weft inclination.It is feasible that the transformation of the loom using reciprocating reeds can develop fabrics with diagonal weft variations,which is innovative in enriching the variety of fabrics and developing personalized fabrics.

关 键 词：织物组织 斜向纬纱 变化纬密 钢筘 移动打纬 倾斜角度 

分 类 号：TS106.5[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程] TS103.12[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]