全成形休闲连衣裙式上衣的设计与开发  

Design and development of full-formed casual dress tops

作　　者：洪楚玲 黄从亮 黄娴 丛洪莲 HONG Chuling;HUANG Congliang;HUANG Xian;CONG Honglian(School of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi 214122,Jiangsu,China;Wuxi Pacific Knitting Co.,Ltd.,Wuxi 214041,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]无锡太平针织有限公司,江苏无锡214041

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2024年第12期55-59,共5页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：为研究休闲连衣裙式上衣的全成形工艺实现方法,在分析休闲连衣裙版型款式设计的基础上,进行了服装的二维版型设计,并对纸样尺寸进行针织工艺转化。通过分析全成形编织成形原理,对关键工艺进行了研究探讨,最后以涤纶纱线为原料完成了全成形圆领荷叶边连衣裙式上衣的一体成形。结果表明:荷叶边褶皱程度与变化针数、编织行数、边针个数有关,而与收针次数无关;平肩袖的成形需要用按比例局部编织的方法实现挂肩结构以及平袖山结构的编织。To study the fully forming process implementation method of casual dress tops,based on the analysis of the pattern design of casual dresses,a two-dimensional pattern design of clothing is carried out,and the paper pattern size is transformed into knitting technology.By analyzing the principle of fully formed weaving,the key processes are studied and discussed.Finally,a fully formed round neck ruffle edge dress style top is completed using polyester yarn as the raw material.The results show that the degree of wrinkling on lotus leaf edges is related to the number of changing needles,weaving rows,and edge needles,but not to the number of stitches;The formation of flat shoulder sleeves requires the use of proportional weaving to achieve the weaving of hanging shoulder structures and flat-sleeve mountain structures.

关 键 词：全成形 褶皱 局部编织 连衣裙 成形工艺 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]