弹力轻薄面料起毛针布的开发与应用  

Development and application of raising fillet for elastic lightweight fabric

作　　者：赵磊[1,3,4] 刘云岗 位丽[1,3] 朱挺[1,4] 赵菊梅[1,3] 张圣忠[1,3] 谭红红 ZHAO Lei;LIU Yungang;WEI Li;ZHU Ting;ZHAO Jumei;ZHANG Shengzhong;TAN Honghong(Yancheng Polytechnic College,Yancheng 224005,Jiangsu,China;Nantong Jinli Textile Equipment Co.,Ltd.,Nantong 226199,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu Military Civil Integration Innovation Platform of Flame retardant Fiber and Functional Textile Key Technology,Yancheng Polytechnic CollegeYancheng Polytechnic College,Yancheng 224005,Jiangsu,China;Jiangsu R&D Center of the Ecological Textile Engineering&Technology,Yancheng Polytechnic CollegeYancheng Polytechnic College,Yancheng 224005,Jiangsu,China)

机构地区：[1]盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005 [2]南通金力纺织器材有限公司,江苏南通226199 [3]江苏省阻燃纤维及功能性纺织品关键技术军民融合创新平台盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005 [4]江苏省生态纺织工程技术研发中心,盐城工业职业技术学院,江苏盐城224005

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2024年第12期87-89,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

基　　金：2023年江苏高校“青蓝工程”优秀教学团队(现代纺织工程技术校企无缝融合教学团队)资助项目[苏教师函(2023)27号];江苏省2022年高校国际化人才培养品牌专业;江苏省阻燃纤维及功能性纺织品关键技术创新平台(2022JMRH-003);2023年江苏省产学研合作项目(BY20230885)。

摘　　要：从弹力轻薄面料的结构特点、起毛加工现状着手,分析起毛加工对起毛针布的要求,然后从钢丝和底布的选用、针布工艺参数的设计、针布钢针针尖处理等对起毛针布的影响进行设计,并通过客户实际使用情况对设计思路进行验证。试验结果表明:针对弹力轻薄面料开发的起毛针布满足了客户对产品风格的要求,同时在面料强力和拉毛损耗等方面也有明显改善。Starting from the structural characteristics of elastic lightweight fabrics and the current status of raising processing,the requirements of raising processing for raising fllet is analyzed,the influence of steel wire and base cloth selection,process parameter design,and steel needle tip treatment on raising fillet is discussed and designed,and the design idea is verified through practical customer use.The experimental results show that the designed raising fillet for elastic lightweight fabric can meet the customer's requirements for product style,and also has significant improvements in fabric strength and fuzz loss.

关 键 词：弹力轻薄面料 起毛针布 工艺参数 

分 类 号：TS103.82[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]