花式纱线创新模式的构建及其应用  

Construction and application of innovation model for fancy yarns

作　　者：薛惊理 李金键 薛元 金光 陈文浩 XUE Jingli;LI Jinjian;XUE Yuan;JIN Guang;CHEN Wenhao(Consinee Group CO.,Ltd.,Ningbo,Zhejiang 315032,China;College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China)

机构地区：[1]康赛妮集团有限公司,浙江宁波315032 [2]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2024年第12期140-150,共11页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：宁波市“揭榜挂帅”重点研发项目(20232ZDYF020042)。

摘　　要：为了提高花式纱线的结构、形态和色彩纹理特征,为纺织服装产品的技术创新提供有力支撑,以构建花式纱线的创新模式为目标,通过对花式纱线发展历程的回顾,分析和总结花式纱线加工技术近年来取得的进步及存在的不足;以花式纱线全流程加工为视角,对花式纱线的定义、分类及其构型进行拓展;从构成原理、加工技术、视觉艺术等3个层面对花式纱线创新要素进行分析,提出9种花式纱线的创新机制及其构建方法;以纺纱过程的非均匀混合、多通道异步牵伸、多轴系非对称加捻为手段,探讨花式纱线的纺制工艺及其形态、结构、色彩、纹理风格的创新方法。In order to improve the structure,form and color texture characteristics of fancy yarn and provide strong support for the technological innovation of textile and apparel products,the development of fancy yarn was reviewed,the progress and shortcomings of fancy yarn processing technology in recent years were analyzed and summarized in this paper.The definition,classification and configuration of fancy yarn were expanded from the perspective of the whole process of fancy yarn processing.The innovative elements of fancy yarns were analyzed from three aspects,namely,composition principle,processing technology and visual art,and the innovation mechanism and construction method of 9 kinds of fancy yarns were proposed.By means of non-uniform mixing,multi-channel asynchronous drafting and multi-axis asymmetric twisting in spinning process,the spinning process of fancy yarn and its innovative methods of shape,structure,color and texture style were discussed.

关 键 词：花式纱线 纺纱技术 非均匀混合技术 异步牵伸技术 非对称加捻技术 

分 类 号：TS104[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]