海滩碎波带波性质的统计对比分析  

Statistical Analysis and Comparison on Wave Properties in a Beach-surf Zone

作　　者：陈子燊[1] 李志强[1] 李志龙[1] 曹健荣 

机构地区：[1]中山大学河口海岸研究所,广东广州510275

出　　处：《中山大学学报（自然科学版）》2002年第6期86-90,共5页Acta Scientiarum Naturalium Universitatis Sunyatseni

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目 (40 2 76 0 30 ) ;广东省自然科学基金资助项目 (992 0 39)

摘　　要：利用台风影响下的海滩碎波带采集的两个测点的压力波资料从频域作了处理与计算 ,对波谱形态特征 ,有效波高、峰值周期、有效波陡、波的群性因子、碎波谱的平衡域和长重力波要素等相应的波性质作了对比分析。The characteristics including wave spectral shapes, significant wave heights, spectral peak periods, significant wave steeps, wave groupiness factors, surf spectral equilibrium ranges and infragravity waves were computed using the data of wave pressure measured at two stations in a beach_surf zone under the typhoon impact and processing the data in frequency domain.The wave properties were compared and analyzed between two stations.

关 键 词：海滩碎波带 波性质 统计对比分析 碎波谱 长重力波 波动特性 

分 类 号：P731.22[天文地球—海洋科学]