基于数智立体可变针织物的服装设计方法  

Garment Design Method Based on Digital Intelligent Three-Dimensional Stretchable Knit Fabrics

作　　者：严宜舒 周金云[2] 姜绶祥[2] YAN Yishu;ZHOU Jinyun;JIANG Shouxiang(School of Design,Nanjing University of the Arts,Nanjing 210013,China;School of Fashion and Textile,The Hong Kong Polytechnic University,Hong Kong 999077,China)

机构地区：[1]南京艺术学院设计学院,江苏南京210013 [2]香港理工大学时装及纺织学院,中国香港999077

出　　处：《服装学报》2024年第6期492-499,共8页Journal of Clothing Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(23YJC760136);南京艺术学院“瑞华至美”人才基金项目。

摘　　要：针对一般服装结构设计方法不适用于新型针织服装的问题,探讨了一种基于数智立体可变针织物的服装形态设计新方法。以围绕纬编针织物卷边效应研发的“数智立体可变针织物”为实验对象,将身体作为服装造型中的参与者,归纳了圆桶与矩面两种基础造型方式与基于肩及腰部组合的4组身体支撑点,以此建构了8种基准形式,验证了144种潜在的服装造型,其中128种造型可有效实施。研究表明:应用立体可变针织物设计服装时,双反面及桂花针组织的面料工艺与沿织物横列方向(垂直于人体中轴线的方向)、矩面型结构的服装造型方法组合,更有利于实现多种服装造型效果。This study explored a new approach to garment form design based on digital intelligent knitted fabrics, in response to the difficulty of extending general garment structure design methods to new knitted fabrics. The experiment was based on the "three-dimensional stretchable knit fabrics", which was developed around the curling effect of weft-knitted fabrics. Taking the human body as a participant in garment form construction, two basic construction methods, tubular-type and rectangular type, and four sets of body support points were summarised. Eight foundational forms were identified, and 144 potential garment forms were experimentally verified with three sets of three-dimensional stretchable knit fabric samples and two fabric application directions. Among them, 128 shapes were effectively implemented. The study shows that employing three-dimensional stretchable knitted fabrics along the fabric course direction(perpendicular to the body’s central axis), applying rectangular-type styles, and utilizing purl and link stitch structures significantly enhance the ability to achieve diverse design effects in garment forms.

关 键 词：数智 立体 可变形态 针织服装 设计方法 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]