唐代妇女裙装的演变及其影响因素  

The Development of Women's Skirts in the Tang Dynasty and Its Influential Factors

作　　者：刘萱 LIU Xuan(Shaanxi University of International Trade and Commerce,Xianyang Shaanxi,712046,China)

机构地区：[1]陕西国际商贸学院,陕西咸阳712046

出　　处：《文化创新比较研究》2024年第36期61-65,共5页Comparative Study of Cultural Innovation

摘　　要：间裙、纯色裙、花裙和幅裙是唐代妇女裙装的典型样式,该文采用跨学科研究的视野与方法,综合运用墓葬壁画、敦煌壁画、传世画作等图像资料,结合史料文献的多重证据,对这4种典型样式进行了分析。探讨了皇帝诏令对裙装发展的规范作用,指出尽管朝廷试图通过诏令遏制奢侈之风,但唐代妇女对美的追求并未因此而停止,反而一定程度上促进了唐代妇女裙装的创新与发展。同时,通过探讨在唐代初期与安史之乱后唐代丝绸产业的发展情况,以及唐代织物纹样对外来文化的吸收和创新,阐释了丝绸产业的蓬勃发展及织造纹样的丰富对唐代妇女裙装发展的支持作用。Striped skirts,solid-color skirts,floral skirts,and wide skirt are typical styles of women's attire during the Tang Dynasty.This paper adopts an interdisciplinary research perspective and methodology,integrating tomb murals,Dunhuang murals,extant paintings,and other pictorial materials with historical documents to analyze these four representative styles.It discusses the regulatory role of imperial edicts on the development of skirt fashion,noting that despite the court's attempts to curb extravagance through decrees,the pursuit of beauty by women during the Tang Dynasty did not cease,but rather promoted innovation and development in women's attire to a certain extent.Additionally,by exploring the development of the silk industry in the early Tang period and after the An Lushan Rebellion,as well as the absorption and innovation of Tang Dynasty textile patterns from foreign cultures,the paper elucidates how the thriving silk industry and the richness of weaving patterns supported the development of women's skirts in the Tang Dynasty.

关 键 词：间裙 条纹裙 幅裙 丝绸 唐代纹样 服装史 

分 类 号：K242[历史地理—历史学] K876.9[历史地理—中国史]