四基色纤维构建的全色域混色模型及彩色纱纺制  

Full-color gamut mixing model constructed by four-color fibers and its use for color yarn spinning

作　　者：汪燕燕 薛元 陈宥融 陈国方 WANG Yanyan;XUE Yuan;CHEN Yourong;CHEN Guofang(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Jiangnan University,Wuxi,Jiangsu 214122,China;Zhejiang Taitan Co.,Ltd.,Shaoxing,Zhejiang 311800,China)

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织科学与工程学院,江苏无锡214122 [2]浙江泰坦股份有限公司,浙江绍兴311800

出　　处：《纺织学报》2025年第1期62-71,共10页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省“尖兵”“领雁”研发攻关计划项目(2022C01188)。

摘　　要：为在全色域范围内即时调控纱线的成纱颜色,以3种彩色纤维和1种灰色纤维为原料,用耦合-叠加混色的方法构建了四基色耦合-叠加混色模型,基于该混色模型可指导四基色纤维在全色域范围内纺纱;结合三通道数控转杯纺纱原理,构建了协同调控多通道喂入速度比-基色纤维混纺比-成形纱线色彩的三通道转杯纺混色纺纱机制;从全色域混色模型中选择了等彩度不同色相、等色相不同明度、等色相不同彩度3个系列的156个颜色进行纱线和织物的纺制,测量了纱线的HSL值,验证了基于全色域混色模型和三通道数控转杯纺纱平台生产彩色纱的工艺可行性。结果表明:基于全色域网格化混色模型纺制出的混色纱及其织物的色彩变化和全色域混色模型色彩具有一致的变化规律,混色纱的色相角变化范围为0°~360°、明度变化范围为0~1、彩度变化范围为0~1,证明所构建的全色域混色模型可实现从色相、明度、彩度3个维度对成纱颜色进行数字化精准调控。Objective In recent years,colored spun yarn has been developed rapidly because of its unique color blending effect and environmentally friendly production process.However,the current spinning of colored spun yarn primarily relies on the fiber blending ratio and point-to-point color matching of the yarn,lacking a suitable color mixing model to systematically guide the spinning of colored fibers and enable real-time adjustment of the yarn color.In order to address this issue,a full-color gamut gridded color mixing model is established,incorporating the characteristics of three-channel numerical control rotor spinning.This model guides fiber spinning within the full-color gamut range created by four primary colors and regulates the hue,brightness,and saturation of the yarn color across the entire color gamut.Method First,a four-primary color coupling-superposition mixing model was constructed using three types of colored fibers and one gray fiber as raw materials.This mixing model enabled precise digital control of hue,brightness,and saturation within the entire color gamut,and this model was utilized to guide the spinning of four primary color fibers.Then,by combining the principles of three-channel computer numerical control(CNC)cup spinning,a three-channel cup spinning mixing mechanism was developed to synergistically control the ratios of feeding speeds,blending ratios of primary fibers,and colors of formed yarns.This breakthrough eliminated the barriers between feeding speed ratios,blending ratios of primary fibers,and colors of formed yarns,enabling adjustment of the other two variables based on any one variable.Lastly,a total of 156 colors were selected from the full-color gamut mixing model,including three types,i.e.equal brightness with different hue series,equal hue and different brightness series,and equal hue and different saturation series.Utilizing the three-channel rotor spinning platform,the selected 156 colors were made into mixed color yarns and fabrics with the four primary color fibers.The color

关 键 词：色纺纱 全色域混色模型 转杯纺纱 色彩调控 数控纺纱 

分 类 号：TS104.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]