基于面料缩率测试与服装虚拟技术的充气服装制版方法  

Inflatable garment pattern-making method based on fabric shrinkage test and garment virtual technology

作　　者：李旰鹏 邱佩娜[2] 王保鲁[2] 常薇 梁贻琦 郭明昊 王方明 LI Ganpeng;QIU Peina;WANG Baolu;CHANG Wei;LIANG Yiqi;GUO Minghao;WANG Fangming(School of Fine Arts,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;School of Fashion,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;College of Fashion and Design,Donghua University,Shanghai 200051,China;School of Fashion Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion Technology,Nanchang,Jiangxi 330201,China;Suzhou Xingfengqiang Textile Technology Co.,Ltd.,Suzhou,Jiangsu 215227,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院美术学院,北京100029 [2]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029 [3]东华大学服装与艺术设计学院,上海200051 [4]江西服装学院服装设计学院,江西南昌330201 [5]苏州市兴丰强纺织科技有限公司,江苏苏州215227

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2025年第1期75-82,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：北京服装学院服务国家特殊需求博士人才培养项目(NHFZ20240096)。

摘　　要：针对充气服装生产中,面料受热收缩与衣片充气变形现象影响服装版型准确制定,因而造成高试错成本的现存难题,探索低成本、高效率的充气服装制版方法。通过设计面料缩率实验分别测试充气针织服装面料横纵向热缩率与充气缩率值以辅助调整服装版型比例,并基于服装虚拟试衣软件探索充气服装的虚拟建模方法,参考款式设计图完成服装建模与版型调整后导出版型图以制作成衣,所得成衣较还原充气服装款式设计图的造型。将缩率测试实验与虚拟技术相结合,有助于充气服装版型的准确制定,能够减少样衣制作次数,节省成本并提高产品开发效率。In the production of inflatable clothing,fabric shrinkage and inflatable deformation affect the accurate formulation of clothing pattern,resulting in high trial and error cost.In order to explore a low-cost,high-efficiency inflatable clothing pattern making method,the transverse and longitudinal heat shrinkage rate and inflatable shrinkage rate of inflatable clothing fabric were tested respectively to help adjust the proportion of clothing pattern through the design of fabric shrinkage experiment.The virtual modeling method of inflatable clothing was explored based on the clothing virtual fitting software.The clothing model was completed by referring to the style design and the pattern after the adjustment to produce clothing,and the resulting clothing was more modeled than the inflatable clothing style design.The combination of shrinkage test experiment and virtual technology is helpful to the accurate formulation of inflatable clothing pattern,which can reduce the number of samples making,save costs and improve the efficiency of product development.

关 键 词：充气服装 服装虚拟技术 缩率测试 服装制版 产品开发 

分 类 号：TS941.7[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]