植物染料对涤纶织物的可染性分析  

Analysis on the dyeability of plant dyes to polyester fabrics

作　　者：康啸虎 李厚明 宋凯利 余志成[1,2,3] KANG Xiaohu;LI Houming;SONG Kaili;YU Zhicheng(College of Textile Science and Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Engineering Research Center for Eco-Dyeing&Finishing of Textiles,Ministry of Education,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Sci-Tech University Tongxiang Research Institute,Jiaxing 314500,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学桐乡研究院,浙江嘉兴314500

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2025年第1期44-50,共7页Advanced Textile Technology

基　　金：浙江理工大学桐乡研究院项目(TYY202213)。

摘　　要：为开展植物染料对涤纶织物的可染性理论研究,并开发对应的染色工艺和助剂,基于无机性有机性平衡值理论,计算得到大黄、虎杖、紫草和靛蓝IOB值分别为1.43、1.26、1.24和1.17(与涤纶IOB值0.68相差不大),具有良好的染色性能和染色牢度;而葡萄籽、胭脂虫红IOB值分别为1.87和2.80,染色效果较差。将涤纶织物用硫酸亚铁进一步处理,大黄染色涤纶织物K/S值提高至1.31,日晒牢度提高至3~4级;虎杖染色涤纶织物K/S值提升至6.76,日晒牢度提升至4级;紫草染色涤纶织物K/S值提升至3.97,日晒牢度提升至2~3级。研究结果可为植物染料的研发及在涤纶织物上的应用提供参考。With people's pursuit of healthy lifestyle and the popularity of intangible cultural heritage,fabrics dyed with natural dyes are not only in line with the concept of ecological health care,non-toxic and harmless,but also a kind of inheritance and development of traditional culture.As people begin to value the use of natural dyes,the dying of synthetic fibers,which have wide applications in various fields such as textile,apparel and home goods,is particularly important.However,there is currently a lack of theoretical research on the dyeing of synthetic fibers with natural dyes.Therefore,the research on the dyeability of natural dyes on polyester fibers and the development of corresponding dyeing processes and auxiliaries can not only partially reduce the dyeing chemical pollutants of polyester fabrics,but also enrich the color and functionality of fabrics.It lays a theoretical foundation for the research and development of plant dyes and their application on polyester fabrics,and is of great significance to promote the sustainable development of the clothing and decorative fabric industry.In this paper,based on the theory of inorganic-organic property balance value,the effect of natural pigment IOB value on the dyeability of polyester fabrics was studied.The pigment components of natural dyes rhubarb,polygonum cuspidatum and lithospermum were qualitatively studied by high-erformance liquid chromatography,and the relative mass fraction of the single pigment component was quantitatively analyzed.The IOB values of natural dyes rhubarb,polygonum cuspidatum,lithospermum,natural indigo dye,grape seed dye and carmine dye were calculated and compared with the IOB values of polyester,and the IOB theory was verified by the K/S value of polyester fabrics.The effect of mordant on K/S value and color fastness of polyester fabrics were studied by using alum and ferrous sulfate mordant and post mordant dyeing process.It was found that according to the theory of inorganic-organic property balance,the IOB values of rhubarb,polygon

关 键 词：植物染料 涤纶织物 无机性有机性平衡值 染色 色牢度 

分 类 号：TS193.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]