基于三针经缎组织经编外穿面料编织工艺研究  

Knitting Process and Performance Test of Warp Knitted Apparel Fabric Based on Three-needle Atlas Tricot Stitch

作　　者：谢香娇 张飞宇 梁飞 Xie Xiangjiao;Zhang Feiyu;Liang Fei(Pacific(Panyu)Textile Printing and Dyeing Co.,Ltd.,Guangzhou,Guangdong 511462,China)

机构地区：[1]互太(番禺)纺织印染有限公司,广东广州511462

出　　处：《针织工业》2025年第1期21-25,共5页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：为开发适合外穿领域的经编面料,设计4种不同三针经缎组织,并在机号为40针/25.4 mm的特利科脱型经编机上试织5块不同编织工艺的经缎织物,阐述设计思路、编织工艺,分析调机过程关键技术点,并测试成品面料的物理性能,评估面料布面风格。结果表明,这4种三针经缎组织成品面料均具有横条纹效果以及良好的抗钩丝性能、抗起毛起球性能,纵向拉伸后不易发生卷曲,弹性适中,回弹较好,除了前梳采用1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//、后梳采用0-1/2-1/3-2/1-2//这个组织搭配外,其余3种结构组合均适合应用于外穿面料,比如运动T恤衫、长裤、轻薄夹克等。In order to develop the warp knitted fabric suitable for apparels,5 pieces of warp kntted fabrics in different knitting process were designed by using 4 kinds of different 3-needle atlas tricot stitches on the tricot warp kntting machine with the gauge of E40.The design ideas,kniting process conditions,key technical points in the kniting process were analyzed,and the physical properties of the finished fabric were tested and the styles of the five pieces of fabrics were evaluated.The results show that the finished fabric of 3-needle atlas tricot stitch fabric which provided with horizontal stripes,has good anti-snagging and anti-pilling properties,is not easy to curl after the warp stretching,and also has moderate elasticity and good recovery.Except fikjor the pattern chain:front guide bar 1-0/1-2/2-3/2-1//,back guide bar 0-1/2-1/3-2/1-21l,the other 3 kinds of 3-needle atlas are suitable for apparel,such as sports T-shirts,pants,light jackets and so on.

关 键 词：三针经缎组织 编织工艺 布面风格 外穿面料 横条纹 

分 类 号：TS184.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]