中古时期阿拉伯出土扎经染色织物工艺与纹样  

Resist dyeing textile craftsmanship and patterns unearthed from the medieval Arab empire

作　　者：王可[1] 刘大玮 WANG Ke;LIU Dawei(Dunhuang Clothing Culture Research and Innovation Design Center,Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology,Beijing 100029,China;Key Laboratory of Archaeological Sciences and Cultural Heritage,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences(Chinese Academy of History&University of Chinese Academy of Social Sciences),Beijing 100710,China)

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院敦煌服饰文化研究暨创新设计中心,北京100029 [2]中国社会科学院(中国历史研究院&中国社会科学院大学)科技考古与文化遗产保护重点实验室,北京100710

出　　处：《纺织高校基础科学学报》2024年第6期121-128,共8页Basic Sciences Journal of Textile Universities

基　　金：北京社科基金青年项目(20YTC028);故宫博物院2021年开放课题(202111037)。

摘　　要：针对中古时期阿拉伯出土扎经染色织物的产生背景、纹样特征、工艺特征以及审美内涵,采用类型学、图像学方法和比较研究法,梳理归纳了这一时期出土扎经染色织物的工艺与纹样特征,并根据其特征探究扎经染色织物与宗教美学之间的内在联系。研究表明:这些织物在图案风格上展现出高度的一致性,深刻体现了伊斯兰艺术所追求的秩序美这一核心审美特质。织物上的纹样母题,均以理性的状态规律排布,通过几何线条的对称、延伸、增补等手法,构成和谐的几何图形,传达出对宇宙周而复始的深刻理解与崇敬。从工艺角度,这些织物通过对经线预先计算防染位置,再进行排花对花,展现出几何纹样的秩序美感。由于扎经染色工艺的特殊性,经过防染的经线呈现出一种独特的动态效果,使静态的几何图案焕发出流动的生命力。Aimed at the historical background,pattern characteristics,technological features,and aesthetic connotations of the excavated tie-dyed fabrics from medieval Arab regions,the typological methods,iconological methods,and comparative research methods were employed in this study to sort out and summarize the craftsmanship and patterns of the resist dyeing fabrics unearthed during this period.Additionally,the intrinsic connection between resist dyeing fabrics and religious aesthetics was explored based on their patterns and craftsmanship.The results show that these fabrics exhibit a high degree of consistency in pattern style,profoundly reflecting the core aesthetic trait of orderliness pursued in Islamic art.The pattern motifs on the fabrics are arranged in a rational and regular manner.Through the rigorous structure of geometric lines,serene and continuous forms,as well as techniques such as symmetry,extension,and supplementation,they constitute harmonious geometric patterns,conveying a profound understanding and reverence for the cyclical nature of the universe.Furthermore,from a technological perspective,these textiles demonstrate a meticulous process where the positions of warp threads are pre-calculated for resist dyeing,followed by precise pattern alignment to achieve the aesthetic appeal of geometric order.Due to unique characteristics of the tie-dyeing technique,the resist-dyed warp threads exhibit a distinctive dynamic effect,bringing a sense of flowing vitality to otherwise static geometric patterns.

关 键 词：扎经染色 织物 工艺 纹样 几何 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]