祛斑美白化妆品及其美白功效成分使用现状调研及展望  

Investigation and prospect of whitening cosmetics and whitening ingredients on the current situation

作　　者：王贺聪 黄典超 WANG Hecong;HUANG Dianchao(Beijing Technology and Business University,Beijing 100048,China)

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学,北京100048

出　　处：《日用化学品科学》2025年第2期47-52,共6页Detergent & Cosmetics

摘　　要：调研了2022年1月1日-2023年3月31日期间,化妆品新系统申报的祛斑美白类化妆品的注册情况和祛斑美白成分使用情况。结果显示:2022年1月1日-2023年3月31日,国产、进口祛斑美白化妆品(仅具物理遮盖作用除外)注册数量分别为437件和97件,国产此类产品2014-2015年注册数量101件,国产祛斑美白化妆品发展迅速;国产和进口祛斑美白功效成分中,烟酰胺占比均大于50%,且位列第一,烟酰胺作为美白剂被广泛认可;抑制黑素小体的成熟或转运的祛斑美白剂的使用率为71.76%,但此类原料仅占23种祛斑美白功效成分的13.04%,说明抑制黑素小体的成熟或转运的成分需求较高,但类别较少,有较大发展空间;植物祛斑美白功效成分在2012-2016年,使用率为56.7%,在2022-2023年,使用率为1.6%,植物祛斑美白功效成分使用率明显下降,遇到较大挑战,可能与作用机理、功效检测、安全评估等研究不足有关。通过统计祛斑美白类化妆品注册情况,以期为祛斑美白化妆品及其功效原料的研究开发和应用提供方向。According to the Regulations on the Supervision and Administration of Cosmetics,whitening cosmetics belong to special cosmetics.It is a kind of effective skin care products with a relatively high degree of risk,and it is favored by consumers.In order to understand the application status in China and abroad,we investigated the registration status of whitening cosmetics and the utilization of whitening ingredients registered in the cosmetics new system from January 1,2022 to March 31,2023.The results showed that:the number of registrations of domestic and imported whitening cosmetics was 437 and 97,respectively.The number of registrations of domestic products was 101 in 2014-2015,and domestic whitening cosmetics developed rapidly.The proportion of nicotinamide in domestic and imported whitening ingredients was more than 50%,and it ranked first.Nicotinamide was widely recognized as a whitening agent.The utilization rate of whitening agents that inhibit the maturation or transport of melanosome was 71.76%,but such whiting materials accounted for only 13.04%of the 23 whitening ingredients.This indicates that there is a high demand for ingredients that inhibit the maturation or transport of melanosomes,but the categories are limited and there is great room for development.The utilization rate of plant whitening ingredients was 56.7%in 2012-2016,and 1.6%in 2022-2023.The utilization rate of plant whitening ingredients decreased significantly and encountered great challenges.It might be related to insufficient research on the mechanism of action,efficacy testing,and safety evaluation.Through statistical analysis of the registration data,the objective of this study is to provide guidance for the research,development,and application of whitening cosmetics as well as their effective raw materials.

关 键 词：祛斑美白类化妆品 功效成分 注册数量 现状及挑战 趋势 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]