《酉阳杂俎》中的纺织服饰社会文化史研究  

A Socio-Cultural Historical Study of Textile and Clothing in Youyang Miscellaneous Chopping Ground

作　　者：李龙 李强 LI Long;LI Qiang(School of Fashion Design,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430073,China;Office of Journal of Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Textile University,Wuhan Hubei 430200,China;School of Fashion Design,Jiangxi Institute of Fashion,Nanchang Jiangxi 330201,China)

机构地区：[1]武汉纺织大学服装学院,湖北武汉430073 [2]武汉纺织大学《武汉纺织大学学报》编辑部,湖北武汉430200 [3]江西服装学院服装设计学院,江西南昌330201

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2025年第1期14-22,共9页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究规划项目(21YJA760032);湖北省教育厅哲学社会科学研究一般项目(20Y075);江西服装学院中华服饰文化研究院“十三五”规划招标项目(02).

摘　　要：唐代笔记小说《酉阳杂俎》虽为志怪小说,但其中的纺织服饰描写可作为补史阙的重要珍贵史料,具有研究价值。文章基于文献考据和考古实物相结合的二维互证法复盘研究,研究认为:①亡人盖面衣之习俗并非因为羞耻,而是源于冥界寒冷避寒所用。②桑林与丧葬具有联系,故会出现以桑木作棺欀的情况。③魏晋时期的长时间社会动乱,故盛行薄葬之风,貂蝉冠也在历史更替中不断变化。④“缟”为本色的“缯”,为未经脱胶练染的本色精细生胚织物。⑤“缣”为双丝的“缯”,缣帛因纹理质密,逐渐取代竹简作为书写材料。⑥关于“罽”的定义由渔网到毡毯的改变,实质上反映了“罽”定义的外延的扩大。⑦造纸术“灰腌”麻料的过程与“沤麻法”脱胶制作麻布都是通过微生物发酵实现,造纸术就是从处理麻纤维的纺织工艺技术发展而来。并且西汉时期蔡伦改进造纸术使麻纸得到广泛推广,逐渐替代昂贵的缣帛与沉重的简牍作为新的书写材料。⑧“束縑”的“束”与“匹马束丝”的“束”同为织物的规格度量。⑨《酉阳杂俎》中将北周前的幅巾称为“帻”,隋唐时期称为“幞”,对帻与幞头的描写起到了补史的作用。⑩少数民族的髡发形式因其适应风沙天气所蓄。⑪合髻并非指发式,而是一种唐宋婚俗。Although the Tang Dynasty notebook novel"Youyang Miscellany Chop"is a novel of fantasy,the textile and clothing depictions in it can be used as an important and precious historical material to make up for the historical queues,and it has research value.The article is based on the two-dimensional mutual evidence method combining documentary evidence and archaeological objects to review the research,and the research concluded that:firstly,the custom of the deceased covering the face of the clothes is not because of the shame,but originated from the cold of the underworld to avoid the cold used.Secondly,mulberry forests were associated with funerals,so the use of mulberry wood as coffin lining would occur.Third,the long period of social unrest in the Wei and Jin Dynasties,so the prevalence of thin burials,sable crowns are also changing in the history of change.Fourth,"gao"for the color of the"zeng",for the unglued practice of dyeing the fine raw embryonic fabrics of the original color.Fifth,"thick waterproof silk"for double silk"silk",thick silk because of the texture of dense,gradually replace the use of bamboo slips as a writing material.Sixth,the definition of the"ji"from the fishing net to the felt carpet changes,in essence,reflects the"ji"definition of the expansion of the extension.Seventh,"papermaking"ash curing"hemp process and composted hemp method"degumming production of hemp cloth are achieved through microbial fermentation,papermaking is the development of textile technology from the treatment of hemp fiber.And the Western Han Dynasty Cai Lun improved papermaking so that hemp paper has been widely promoted,and gradually replace the expensive thick silk and heavy documents as a new writing material.Eighth,the"bundle"of"bundle of information"and the"bundle"of"horse bundle of silk"are the same as the specification measure of fabric.Ninth,in the"Youyang Miscellany Chopper",the scarf before the Northern Zhou Dynasty is called"conical cap",and during the Sui and Tang dynasties it was called"turban",and the dep

关 键 词：《酉阳杂俎》 笔记小说 纺织 丧葬 冠 发式 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]