辽代契丹袍闭合方式及多元文化内涵分析  

Analysis of the Mode of Closure and Multicultural Connotations of the Khitan Robe in the Liao Dynasty

作　　者：张妍[1] 郑思锐 ZHANG Yan;ZHENG Sirui(International Academy of Arts,Dalian University of Foreign Languages,Dalian Liaoning 116044,China)

机构地区：[1]大连外国语大学国际艺术学院,辽宁大连116044

出　　处：《武汉纺织大学学报》2025年第1期34-41,共8页Journal of Wuhan Textile University

基　　金：教育部中华优秀传统文化专项课题(A类)重点项目(尼山世界儒学中心/中国孔子基金会课题基金项目)(23JDTCA007).

摘　　要：辽代契丹袍中不同结构的闭合方式透露出辽代的穿衣习俗和礼制规则,挖掘其中与中华民族服饰文化一脉相连之处,促进民族文化凝聚力的同时探究辽代契丹袍闭合方式和背后所蕴含的多元文化内涵。文章采用资料考证法和图像分析法,对辽代出土袍服实物及墓葬壁画中契丹袍的闭合方式进行分析归纳。研究表明:辽代契丹袍的闭合件,依照材质和功能可细分为四类——纽扣、腰带和衣身系带。纽扣的出现,巧妙地回应了辽代人民对于抵御严寒气候和适应游牧生活的需求。这些构件的组合方式多样,包括衣带与腰带的并用、腰带与盘扣的结合、衣带与盘扣的配搭,以及盘纽与绾扣的交织,每一种组合都映射了辽代的文化融合、审美趋势和技术成就,同时反映出了社会等级的划分和文化认同的深度。在材质与色彩的选用上,金、银、玉等贵重材质的偏爱,不仅彰显了辽代社会对奢华之美和精湛工艺的推崇,也体现了当时社会对高端工艺的高度重视和赞赏。The closure of different structures in the Liao Dynasty Khitan robes reveals the clothing customs and rules of etiquette of the Liao Dynasty,and it is important to explore the connection with the Chinese clothing culture and to promote the cohesion of the national culture as well as to explore the multi-cultural connotations behind the closure of the Liao Dynasty Khitan robes.The article adopts the data verification method and image analysis method to analyze and summarize the closure of the Khitan robe in the excavated robes and tomb murals of the Liao Dynasty.The study shows that the closures of the Khitan robes in the Liao Dynasty can be subdivided into four categories according to the materials and functions:buttons,belts,and body ties.The emergence of buttons was an ingenious response to the need of the Liao people to protect themselves from the cold climate and to adapt to the nomadic life.These components were combined in a variety of ways,including the use of sashes and belts,the combination of belts and plate buttons,the matching of sashes and plate buttons,and the interweaving of plate buttons and Obuttons,each of which mapped the cultural fusion,aesthetic trends,and technological achievements of the Liao Dynasty,while reflecting the division of social hierarchies and the depth of cultural identity.In the selection of materials and colors,the preference for precious materials such as gold,silver,and jade not only highlights the Liao society's admiration for the beauty of luxury and exquisite craftsmanship,but also reflects the society's high regard and appreciation for high-end craftsmanship at that time.

关 键 词：辽代 契丹袍 闭合方式 多元文化 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]