洋甘菊花提取物对晒后肌肤的修护功效及作用机制  

Repairing Efficacy and Mechanism of Matricaria Chamomile L.Flower Extract on Post-Sun Skin

作　　者：陶钰 何艳 顾玲 任晗堃 TAO Yu;HE Yan;GU Ling;REN Hankun(Beijing Academy of TCM Beauty Supplements Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 102401,China;Beijing Yuanzhihe Biotechnology Co.,Ltd.,Beijing 100055,China)

机构地区：[1]太和康美(北京)中医研究院有限公司,北京102401 [2]北京元知禾生物科技有限公司,北京100055

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2025年第1期103-108,共6页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

摘　　要：以干燥的洋甘菊花为原料,采用热回流梯度升温提取法,制备洋甘菊花提取物。采用UV辐照人体皮肤模型下的敏感度(Ti Vi-index)平均值、红色素指数(EI)值、经皮水分散失(TEWL)值来评价其晒后修护功效。通过抑制UVB诱导角质形成细胞炎症因子(TNF-α、IL-1α)、炎性介质(PGE2)试验探究其作用机制。结果表明,质量分数为0.2%的洋甘菊花提取物具有显著降低UVB诱导下皮肤敏感度平均值、EI值及TEWL值(P<0.05)的作用。洋甘菊花提取物的体积分数为0.0016%~0.0063%时,可显著抑制UVB刺激下角质形成细胞中炎症因子TNF-α、IL-1α、PGE2的表达(P<0.01)。综上,洋甘菊花提取物应用于化妆品中,预期可发挥晒后修护功效。Using dried Matricaria chamomile L.flower as raw material,the chamomile flower extract was prepared by thermal reflux gradient heating extraction method.The average value of sensitivity(TiVi-index),the value of red pigment index(EI),and the transepidermal water loss(TEWL)under UV irradiation were used to evaluate the efficacy of post-sun repair.The mechanism of action was explored by inhibiting the inflammatory factors(TNF-α,IL-1α)and inflammatory mediators(PGE2)induced by UVB.The results showed that 0.2%(in mass fraction)chamomile flower extract could significantly reduce the average skin sensitivity,EI and TEWL value induced by UVB(P<0.05).When the volume fraction of chamomile flower extract was 0.0016%-0.0063%,the expression of inflammatory factors TNF-α,IL-1αand PGE2 in keratinocytes stimulated by UVB could be significantly inhibited(P<0.01).To sum up,chamomile extract can be used in cosmetics,and it is expected to play a role in post-sun repair.

关 键 词：化妆品 洋甘菊花提取物 晒后修护 

分 类 号：TQ658[化学工程—精细化工]