论云南麦区衔接“面条之路”的探索与实践  

Exploration and Practice:Where the Wheat Producing Area of Yunnan Connects with the“Road of Noodles”

作　　者：朱和双 ZHU Heshuang(Local Culture Institute,Chuxiong Normal University,Chuxiong,Yunnan Province 675000)

机构地区：[1]楚雄师范学院地方民族文化研究院,云南楚雄675000

出　　处：《楚雄师范学院学报》2025年第1期139-151,共13页Journal of Chuxiong Normal University

摘　　要：从长时段的角度来判断,云南人仿制的面条(包括切面、扯面等)囿于食材本身的缺陷,其地位难以同名闻遐迩的米线、饵丝相抗衡。作为西南麦区的边缘地带,近代以前云南种植的小麦得不到应有的重视,其年产量长期落到了稻谷及豆类的后面。随着麦种选育、磨面技术及制面经验的融通,云南的面条制品在副食品的博弈中逐渐赢得了一席之地。面条制品在云南人的饮食结构中扮演着越来越重要的角色,面条的崛起及挂面产业链的提升凝聚着云南人的智慧和力量。韩国KBS纪录片《面条之路》绕开了云南的面条而将米线作为替代物大肆渲染,这种预设图景排除了云南人制作、消费面条的热情。毫无疑问,用小麦磨粉扯制的面条影响着云南人的餐桌,云南麦区衔接“面条之路”的探索与实践绝不能被强势话语所遮蔽。In long-period-perspective terms,noodles(including other dough foods prepared in other ways)fall far behind other rice foods of similar shape in popularity due to quality of wheat.Located on the edge of the wheat belt,Yunnan had never paid much attention to growing wheat,whose yield had remained far behind those of rice and beans,until the modern years when introduction of seed selection,breeding,flour grinding,noodle production and other techniques began to win a decent market share for wheat in its competition with other sideline crops.Ever since then,noodles have been playing a rising role in the diet of the people of Yunnan,whose wisdom and hard work boosted not only noodles production,but also the whole related industry chain.The Korean broadcasting network KBS,however,mistakes mixian(a noodle-shaped local rice food)as wheat noodles in its documentary The Road of Noodles,a preset situation where the enthusiasm of producing and consuming noodles of the people of Yunnan sinks into oblivion.Doubtless wheat noodles play a big role on Yunnan table and the exploration and practice happening in the wheat producing area of Yunnan connecting with the“Road of Noodles”cannot be obscured by stronger discourse.

关 键 词：云南麦区 磨面技术 制面经验 面条制品 饮食文化圈 

分 类 号：TS211.4[轻工技术与工程—粮食、油脂及植物蛋白工程]