元代豪贵的“穿貂”风尚与宫廷裘皮消费  

The Luxury Fashion of“Wearing Minks”and the Royal Fur Consumption in the Yuan Dynasty

作　　者：杨印民[1] Yang Yinmin(National Library of China,Beijing,China 100081)

机构地区：[1]中国国家图书馆,北京100081

出　　处：《内蒙古师范大学学报(哲学社会科学版)》2024年第6期5-14,共10页Journal of Inner Mongolia Normal University:Philosophy and Social Sciences Edition

基　　金：国家社会科学基金重大项目“中国古代各民族相互依存关系史文献整理与研究”(21—ZD219)研究成果之一。

摘　　要：北方民族由于所居环境多为气候寒凉之地,故而对动物毛皮十分青睐,很早就有穿貂裘御寒的历史。元代,冬季“穿貂”是权贵豪富阶层的标配,尤以银鼠裘最为贵重,为皇帝所御用,这在传世名画《元世祖出猎图》中就有表现。貂鼠等动物的珍贵毛皮主要出产于岭北行省和辽阳行省等地,宫廷管理出纳皮货衣物的最高官府是利用监,下辖毛皮的生产制作、人匠管理等十余个机构。元代宫廷对貂鼠等动物毛皮的巨大消费,主要体现在三大方面:一是以御寒为目的的宫廷室内铺陈;二是皇帝、后妃所用并赏赐大臣的日常衣帽服饰;三是用于宫廷祭祀。宫廷对貂裘等动物毛皮的“野性消费”,是元代社会文化多元性和融汇性的具体体现,突出反映了元朝统治阶层的民族性、区域性和时代性等特点。The northern peoples have a long history of wearing minks to keep out the cold.In the Yuan Dynas-ty,“wearing minks”in winter was the standard for the rich and powerful,especially the ermine for the emperor,which was reflected in the famous painting Kublai Khan on the Hunt.The precious furs were mainly produced in such as Lingbei and Liaoyang administrative regions.Liyongjian was the highest royal authority in charge of more than ten organs in fur production,craftsman management,etc..The huge royal fur consumption in the Yuan Dy-nasty is mainly divided into three aspects:decoration and bedding against the cold;daily clothes and costumes for the emperor,queen and ministers;sacrifices.The royal“wild consumption”of fur such as minks,embodiment of the social and cultural diversity and integration,displays the characteristics of nationality,region and times of the ruling class of Yuan Dynasty.

关 键 词：元代 豪贵 宫廷 貂裘 《元世祖出猎图》 

分 类 号：K247[历史地理—历史学]