服用真丝提花面料的设计开发与性能研究  

Design development and performance analysis of silk jacquard fabrics for garments

作　　者：郑晶晶[1,2,3] 吴炜[1] 姚玉元 ZHENG Jingjing;WU Wei;YAO Yuyuan(College of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Digital Intelligence Style and Creative Design Research Centre,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;Zhejiang Provincial Engineering Laboratory of Fashion Digital Technology,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China;School of Materials Science&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学浙江省数智风格与创意设计研究中心,杭州310018 [3]浙江理工大学服装数字化技术浙江省工程实验室,杭州310018 [4]浙江理工大学材料科学与工程学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第3期36-42,共7页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家自然科学基金项目(71503233);中华人民共和国商务部茧丝绸发展项目(23070048-C)。

摘　　要：为改善传统服用真丝面料的柔软度及透气性的性能,文章介绍了两种高舒适性服用真丝提花面料的设计与开发,并对面料性能进行测试分析。采用高感性服用交织面料和高透气服用纯真丝面料的开发技术,从面料图案设计、提花面料原料优选、提花工艺优化三个方面进行两种真丝提花面料的开发,通过对数码提花设备工艺参数的优化提高真丝提花效果。对服用真丝提花面料的透气率和抗弯长度等性能进行测试,结果表明两种服用真丝织物均具有高的色牢度和较好的耐磨擦性能及拉伸性能,其中透气性、刚柔性有很大提升,达到了高档服用真丝提花织物的设计创新开发目的。研究结果可为同类高档面料的开发提供参考。The silk fabric is a green and environmentally friendly natural fiber known for its soft sheen and light texture.It is regarded as a symbol of luxury,high end and fashion,and is an ideal material for making high-end clothing.However,the silk fabric tends to stick to the body during actual wearing and has poor breathability,which suggests that current silk fabrics are difficult to meet the high standards of the current market in terms of comfort such as softness and breathability.This paper aims to improve the wearing comfort of silk fabrics through innovative design.In order to endow silk fabrics with good rigidity and flexibility,fine denier polyester fibers with good elasticity and recovery properties were introduced,and interweaving technology was used to make silk-polyester interwoven fabrics for wearing.To improve the breathability and wearing comfort,on the basis of keeping silk as the main raw material,the organizational structure of pure silk fabrics was innovatively designed to develop pure silk fabrics with porous structure.This paper adopted the development technology of highly sensitive interwoven fabrics and highly breathable pure silk fabrics,and carried out the development of the two silk jacquard fabrics from three aspects:fabric pattern design,jacquard fabric raw material selection,and jacquard process optimization.First of all,through the continuous optimization of element layout and fabric structure,the final patterns of the two silk fabrics were determined,and then the digital jacquard technology was used for the production of jacquard pattern of silk fabrics.In order to ensure the jacquard effect and fabric performance,it is necessary to adjust and optimize the process parameters of the digital silk jacquard system.These parameters include warp density,weft density,raw material ratio,thickness and jacquard density.In this paper,the optimal process parameters for interwoven fabrics with good softness and silk fabrics with good breathability are determined by performance testing.The final proce

关 键 词：真丝面料 提花织物 服用舒适性 数码提花 透气性 

分 类 号：TS145.11[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]