传统“百衲”技艺的装饰艺术解读  

Interpretation of decorative art of traditional“patchwork”skills

作　　者：龙婧 崔荣荣 王志成 LONG Jing;CUI Rongrong;WANG Zhicheng(School of Fashion Design&Engineering,Zhejiang Sci-Tech University,Hangzhou 310018,China)

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第3期98-108,共11页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省哲学社会科学规划领军人才培育课题(引进人才支持)重大项目(22YJRC03ZD);浙江省大学生科技创新活动计划(新苗人才计划)项目(2024R406C083)。

摘　　要：百衲技艺是中华传统女红技艺之一,将纺织布料通过纳缝手段进行平面化或半立体化的加工组合,化零为整后呈现出繁复、细密的装饰效果。文章以民间服饰传习馆、中华衣时尚艺术馆等国内外博物馆现存百衲衣、百衲鞋、百家衣等传世实物为研究样本,结合相关历史文献记载,探究百衲技艺的历史源流、主要特征、工艺细节、应用方式等,重点解读其装饰艺术的生成与演变规律。研究指出,百衲技艺经历了由节用向隐喻装饰、由实用向美用结合、由机械单一向精巧繁复的装饰性演变;同时受社会经济、文化环境、习俗审美等综合影响,其在色彩搭配、结构组合、技法叠加等装饰艺术构成上,也体现出从实际耐用到传情表意、美化装饰的审美情感诉求,彰显了传统民间造物设计的智慧巧思。The patchwork technique is one of the traditional Chinese techniques,mainly through stitching,splicing and other means to prevent the fabric from being flat or semi-three-dimensional processing combination,showing a complex and diverse decorative effect.At present,the academic research on patchwork focuses on the historical changes,clothing styles,production methods and innovative design of patchwork.Since the development of the early agricultural society,the art of patchwork has been in line with the human creation instinct in various periods,and has high research value in the dissemination of decorative arts.This article takes the existing objects made by patchwork art in domestic and foreign museums,such as Folk Costumes Museum and Zhonghua Clothing Fashion Art Museum,as research samples,combined with relevant historical documents and materials,explores the historical origin,main characteristics,process details and application methods of patchwork art,and focuses on the generation and evolution of its decorative art.The study draws three major conclusions.First,with the development of society,economic changes and technological progress,the art of patchwork has experienced the evolution from economical use to metaphorical decoration,from practical use to the combination of beauty use,and from mechanical simplicity to delicate and complicated decoration.Second,with the development of the times,the art of patchwork in color matching,structural combination,stimulating superposition and other decorative arts,also reflects the aesthetic emotional appeal from practical durability to expression,beautification and decoration.Third,patchwork carries strong Oriental cultural charm,folk custom emotion and aesthetic implication,which is very inheritable and interesting.It uses complex techniques to express the life of various parts of the Chinese people,forming a variety of clothing,textile supplies.A variety of patchwork items also reflect different aesthetic cognition,reflect people’s multiple active reflection of aest

关 键 词：百衲技艺 装饰艺术 传统服饰 美用一体 民间手工艺 审美观念 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]