贵州白裤瑶服饰中民族互嵌的形象书写  

The image writing of ethnic interpretation in White Pants Yao clothing of Guizhou

作　　者：刘宗明 李朝阳 富雅婷 LIU Zongming;LI Chaoyang;FU Yating(College of Design and Art,Shaanxi University of Science&Technology,Xi’an 710002,China;School of Packaging Design&Art,Hunan University of Technology,Zhuzhou 412000,China)

机构地区：[1]陕西科技大学设计与艺术学院,西安710002 [2]湖南工业大学包装设计艺术学院,湖南株洲412000

出　　处：《丝绸》2025年第3期119-130,共12页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家社会科学艺术学基金项目(23BG131)。

摘　　要：贵州白裤瑶服饰受民族互嵌格局影响,表现出活跃的文化变迁征象。为探究白裤瑶服饰中族群互嵌与文化变迁信息,文章采用民族学中的民族互嵌理论,在定量分析白裤瑶与周围民族在空间、生产、信仰互嵌状况的基础上,结合象征人类学、符号学等理论对白裤瑶服饰工艺、纹样与色彩进行考释。研究表明,白裤瑶服饰形成于族群迁徙与互嵌的历史语境,表现出动态模糊、族群身份强分化与族群情感弱认同为主的互嵌表征,是族群交流的形象书写。运用民族互嵌理论分析白裤瑶服饰内在逻辑,不仅能了解该民族的造物文化,更能为铸牢中华民族共同体意识提供重要参考价值。The White Pants Yao is one of the main branches of the Yao ethnic group in Guizhou province,mainly living in Libo county,Qiannan Buyi and Miao autonomous prefecture,Guizhou province.Due to the influence of migration,this ethnic group has not created its own writing system,but uses costumes as the text carrier and embroidery patterns as the narrative language to record the development and evolution of the ethnic group.Under the influence of the multi-ethnic mosaic pattern in Guizhou,White Pants Yao traditional costumes show very active signs of cultural fusion and change.Therefore,the study of White Pants Yao costume culture is of great value in exploring the internal causes of multi-ethnic interaction in Guizhou and in building a strong sense of Chinese national community.The article adopts the theory of ethnic interlocking in ethnology,and based on the field study of the production and life in the multi-ethnic area of Guizhou,it quantitatively analyzes the interlocking situation between White Pants Yao and the surrounding ethnic groups in space,production and beliefs,and combines the theories of symbolic anthropology and semiotics to interpret and decode the information of ethnic interlocking embedded in the craftsmanship,patterns and colors of the White Pants Yao costumes.The following two important conclusions are drawn.First,through fieldwork in the multi-ethnic region of Guizhou,it is found that the inter-embeddedness of the ethnic groups there is mainly manifested in the three dimensions of space,production,and culture,and this multi-dimensional inter-embeddedness pattern influences the changes and intermingling of religion,aesthetics,and totemism of the White Pants Yao,and especially in the traditional costumes,which are very active in the signs of cultural change.Second,clothing is not only an important carrier of cultural inheritance for White Pants Yao,but also an important form of emotional bonding and identity awakening.It is found that the changes in the aesthetics of White Pants Yao’s costumes,the

关 键 词：贵州白裤瑶 服饰 图腾 民族非遗 民族互嵌 中华民族共同体意识 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] K892.23[历史地理—民俗学]